Humber FV1611(A)

FV1611A · #1 30-11-10, 14:27

I have recently joined the forum, albeit do frequent the hmvf here in old Blighty.

Thought that I would post some pics of the Pig I have aquired and will be starting restoration on soon. That is once I have the Lightweight and Rover 8 a bit more advanced. However the PIG may sneek in front

Please follow the thread http://hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread...er-Pig-Origins

The damage is essentially external and concentrated around the wings and lockers etc. It would be great to share other members experiences on the wing/ locker rebuilds. In particular if any drawings exist. I intend to survey mine and then produce some fabrication drawings in AutoCAD for replication etc.

Believed to be ex 4th Guards Brigade. ERM is 13BK33. Would just like to say a big thank you to Clive Elliott for his assistance to date. Who has confirmed the following from his archives and database.

Chassis Serial No.21333
ERM 13 BK 33
FV1601(A)
Engine No.6190
Contract No. 6/VEH/27455
Date in service 4/12/53
Delivered to 31st ‘B’ Vehicle Depot Church Broughton
Receipt Voucher No. CBR/R/4454
Converted to FV1611(A) 1959-60
Struck off 9/8/67 OSDD Ruddington
Sale No. 93
Lot No. 718
Sale price £40

fv1620 · #2 03-12-10, 23:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by FV1611A

It would be great to share other members experiences on the wing/ locker rebuilds. In particular if any drawings exist. I intend to survey mine and then produce some fabrication drawings in AutoCAD for replication etc.

Wayne you have the remnants of lockers so these may be measurable & reproduceable. Mine was devoid of lockers.

So I initially made a mock-up out of ply & cardboard, then had the main outer panel cut for me. The problem was that trying to cut sides & fit them to together as a rigid structure was very difficult.

I wanted to carry some heavyish tools in the lockers & needed some rigidity on which to construct the lockers. I have no skills or facilities for sheet metal work so it had to grow on a frame. Once I was happy with the geometry of the frame then the locker could grow from that.

The precut side was inexplicably too long in one area & too short in another. In the end I fixed the panels on & then cut them to shape. I was helped by seeing on photos that the rear panel was bolted on & implied some sturdiness underneath.

I realise on your production Pig that the locker is longer & has a fold down side. There is one of those here & I think a matching side panel is in a lock up in Reading

FV1611A · #3 08-12-10, 14:20

Clive

That is indeed helpful and thank you for sharing the images. I must admit that the idea of a pre-fabricated arrangement being offered up for attaching would make the most sense following the making of templates in cardboard/ thin plywood etc. What was the actual design criteria for these lockers/ bins as there are quite a few. What would the vehicle have used them for. You mention your carrying tools etc. Would they have been used for CES items?

What thickness/ gauge of steel did you use and what it the same thickness as the original panels would have been?

The rear /side/ top lockers are different to yours and I do remember one of the longer panels being at Casa Clive last time I visited. You did also have front wing/ mudguard panels from memory for one side. Was that correct. In hindsight now I would like to purchase those so can they be set aside for when I collect the filter and headlights next time.

It is interesting to see your FV1609 in such a condition of work in progress especially as it looks so resplendant now. She's a credit to your hard work. Have a beer on me for all your continued support. Much appreciated.

fv1620 · #4 09-12-10, 00:43

Wayne here is the drawing made for cutting the main side. Obviously different for a FV1609 from a FV1611. As you will appreciate it is difficult take measurements for something that is in thin air. The net result was errors of an inch or so as something wasn't right with the angles, giving a deficiency one end & surplus the other

The result was to build the frame & feel happy with that then to cover it & cut it down to shape. Without the skill or equipment to spot-weld & I had no MIG at the time, I cheated by fixing the outer sheet to the wheel arch with countersunk rivets which were eventually smoothed over with filler. I just didn't want to risk melting through or buckling the thin sheet.

Given my propensity for reversing the Pig into various obstructions, the lockers on a frame have proved more durable & easier to repair than a more authentic series of flimsy sheets held together with spot-welds.

Yes various bits of CES & other kit could go in the lockers, no specific space allocations. Unless you keep it under cover from the rain there isn't too much you would want to store in there given the points of entry for water & worse on yours as you have another hinge.

Incidentally the picture of it in red oxide, the top lockers hasps were just from B&Q & are surprisingly close to what was originally fitted. The small side locker is original with its original hasp that is far enough away to pass as being the same. The crudely welded domestic hinges have been criticised, but as you realise when you look at yours these are entirely original fittings that were on the NOS lids I was lucky enough to have.

The bits I had were mainly front wing under locker support pieces & I think perhaps part of the locker internals. There was the top side hinged piece & I think in Reading the main side wall that it attaches to over the wheel arch.

PS You will see my comment to the metal cutter to make the cuts a bit wide in case the geometry was wrong! This proved very worthwhile, even so I was still short along one edge but by tilting it I was able to get full coverage for trimming down. On reflection I should have just order a more basic shape to give me plenty of spare to play with. All I wanted was to have sheets that were of a manageable size that could be fixed to the frame to give support & enhance the quality of cut. Having rigid support like this it was quite easy to cut it into shape with those very thin angle grinder discs.

FV1611A · #5 09-12-10, 12:01

You didn't mention the thickness/ gauge of steel plate used.

fv1620 · #6 09-12-10, 12:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by FV1611A

You didn't mention the thickness/ gauge of steel plate used.

Wayne I think you need to withdraw the frying pan once you have studied the diagram

I think it might be twice the original thickness.

FV1611A · #7 09-12-10, 13:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by FV1611A

You didn't mention the thickness/ gauge of steel plate used. :

DOH! Well spotted.......The frying pan is for me Clive.....What a Wolly!

With a magazine of five rounds.......LOAD!......To the muppet to your front in your own time go-on!......

FV1611A · #8 09-12-10, 18:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by fv1620

Wayne here is the drawing made for cutting the main side. Obviously different for a FV1609 from a FV1611. As you will appreciate it is difficult take measurements for something that is in thin air. The net result was errors of an inch or so as something wasn't right with the angles, giving a deficiency one end & surplus the other

The result was to build the frame & feel happy with that then to cover it & cut it down to shape. Without the skill or equipment to spot-weld & I had no MIG at the time, I cheated by fixing the outer sheet to the wheel arch with countersunk rivets which were eventually smoothed over with filler. I just didn't want to risk melting through or buckling the thin sheet.

Given my propensity for reversing the Pig into various obstructions, the lockers on a frame have proved more durable & easier to repair than a more authentic series of flimsy sheets held together with spot-welds.

Yes various bits of CES & other kit could go in the lockers, no specific space allocations. Unless you keep it under cover from the rain there isn't too much you would want to store in there given the points of entry for water & worse on yours as you have another hinge.

Incidentally the picture of it in red oxide, the top lockers hasps were just from B&Q & are surprisingly close to what was originally fitted. The small side locker is original with its original hasp that is far enough away to pass as being the same. The crudely welded domestic hinges have been criticised, but as you realise when you look at yours these are entirely original fittings that were on the NOS lids I was lucky enough to have.

The bits I had were mainly front wing under locker support pieces & I think perhaps part of the locker internals. There was the top side hinged piece & I think in Reading the main side wall that it attaches to over the wheel arch.

PS You will see my comment to the metal cutter to make the cuts a bit wide in case the geometry was wrong! This proved very worthwhile, even so I was still short along one edge but by tilting it I was able to get full coverage for trimming down. On reflection I should have just order a more basic shape to give me plenty of spare to play with. All I wanted was to have sheets that were of a manageable size that could be fixed to the frame to give support & enhance the quality of cut. Having rigid support like this it was quite easy to cut it into shape with those very thin angle grinder discs.

Clive I am guessing that your front lockers were intact and that the same attention was not required and therefore none of your informative photos available?

FV1611A · #9 09-12-10, 18:06

As can be seen the front wings/ lockers are badly perished and the rear off side locker/ locker arrangement is of a similar end.

I would imagine the hardest part will be the front lockers/ arrangements to replicate?

FV1611A · #10 03-04-12, 22:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by fv1620

Wayne here is the drawing made for cutting the main side. Obviously different for a FV1609 from a FV1611. As you will appreciate it is difficult take measurements for something that is in thin air. The net result was errors of an inch or so as something wasn't right with the angles, giving a deficiency one end & surplus the other

The result was to build the frame & feel happy with that then to cover it & cut it down to shape. Without the skill or equipment to spot-weld & I had no MIG at the time, I cheated by fixing the outer sheet to the wheel arch with countersunk rivets which were eventually smoothed over with filler. I just didn't want to risk melting through or buckling the thin sheet.

Given my propensity for reversing the Pig into various obstructions, the lockers on a frame have proved more durable & easier to repair than a more authentic series of flimsy sheets held together with spot-welds.

Yes various bits of CES & other kit could go in the lockers, no specific space allocations. Unless you keep it under cover from the rain there isn't too much you would want to store in there given the points of entry for water & worse on yours as you have another hinge.

Incidentally the picture of it in red oxide, the top lockers hasps were just from B&Q & are surprisingly close to what was originally fitted. The small side locker is original with its original hasp that is far enough away to pass as being the same. The crudely welded domestic hinges have been criticised, but as you realise when you look at yours these are entirely original fittings that were on the NOS lids I was lucky enough to have.

The bits I had were mainly front wing under locker support pieces & I think perhaps part of the locker internals. There was the top side hinged piece & I think in Reading the main side wall that it attaches to over the wheel arch.

PS You will see my comment to the metal cutter to make the cuts a bit wide in case the geometry was wrong! This proved very worthwhile, even so I was still short along one edge but by tilting it I was able to get full coverage for trimming down. On reflection I should have just order a more basic shape to give me plenty of spare to play with. All I wanted was to have sheets that were of a manageable size that could be fixed to the frame to give support & enhance the quality of cut. Having rigid support like this it was quite easy to cut it into shape with those very thin angle grinder discs.

Clive in the afore images did you attach the angle to the top of the wheelarch or did you attach the wheelarch to the frame with plug welds?? The wheelarch profiles are made from quite flimpsy gauge steel as I have a pair of NOS.

Thanks in advance

fv1620 · #11 06-04-12, 11:54

Don't look at the welding bodges!

FV1611A · #12 13-12-10, 11:00

I have purchased a duplicate copy of the user handbook for an FV1611A, which I ordered from the Milweb Bookshop.

In the interim of tracking down a genuine UHB it seemed like a good purchase at £14.00 UKP plus postage costs.

For those of you who are new PIG owners this may be an option you would consider until that genuine copy becomes available.

Sorry about quality of pics / orientation as my 9 month old son was swinging on my arms to grab camera/phone. You will get the gist of it though.