Info needed: C15A 2B1 cargo bed rebuild

[Paul Edwards]

Thank you Grant.

Regards,


Paul

[Paul Edwards]

Hi Guys,

Making progress while the sun shines. Primed, two-Pak and Egg shell coats applied. The Matt coat will done once on the truck.

Now, I've ordered the Canvas from Worthing's. Here's my next dilemma, what would you guys do.

Leather tie down straps (as per early models) or perhaps more practical rope tie downs? As per pictures.

Cheers,


Paul

[m606paz]

Great Job!

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Paul

I intend to use leather straps.....1/4 inch black harness leather....about 1 1/2 inch wide. Key holes punched in the strap will fit over the pins on the side of your truck... you pull down on the leather strap to stretch the canvas and push on the pin ..... the tension will pull the leather up into the slit just below the hole and stay tight... that is original to the 1939/30 period...... ropes if you loose your tarp in combat and take whatever the QM gives you with ropes.......

There was another version of fastening....... a device shaped like a J that holds the hood and some engine covers on cab 13 where used........ section of rope...tied to the metal device that has a spring for tension and a slot to fit the pins on the box or a hook to the rope fastener hooks on the box.

The original early tarp was designed so the sides could be rolled up to the top and fastened to a leather buckle at the bend of the bows..... front section also rolled up...... at this point in time I am not sure what holds the rolled up tarp to the bows????? your truck will now look like a vegetable delivery truck.... I am not sure if my repro tarp has the roof buckles or not.... if not They will be retro fitted so as to have some shade on the cargo box....

Once at the leather shop for the straps to be sewn in..... I might consider reinforcement/sacrificial strips of canvass or more leather where the tarp rubs on the steel bows.

Do not forget your ropes, if you use them it has to be treated with pine tar, to protect against humidity......Pine tar, available in quart size cans, will also stain your hands everytime you touch them...... or maybe Jordan Baker can share his secret recipe made with a mixture of beeswax,ears wax, and the juice of phoo-phoo pins..... Jordan you there????

Remember leather will stretch with time....canvass will shrink in time and discolor....... patches are battle scars of glory!!!!

Your box looks supper nice!!!!

Cheers

[Jordan Baker]

I used linseed oil mixed with melted beeswax. I used an old frying pan to melt and mix everything then simply soaked the rope in it and then pulled them out. Be prepared for your hands to always come away with residue on them though.

[Paul Edwards]

Thanks gents,

With regard to the hood bows, is the top bow slightly cranked at midspan to create a ridge line? Or square?

Cheers,


Paul

[Grant Bowker]

The samples Bob and I copied definitely had a very slight bend at mid-span. Our recreations were bent in two segments for ease of management of the parts.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Paul Edwards

With regard to the hood bows, is the top bow slightly cranked at midspan to create a ridge line? Or square?

It is slighty cranked, 2,5 cm/ one inch higher according to my measurements. Top of the bow measures 145 cm from the bed floor, just before the corner starts the height is 142,5 cm.

The radius of the corner is 25 cm/ ten inch, Worthing's canvas fits that radius.

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[Paul Edwards]

Photos of where we're at now, cargo bed mounted and bolted down. Toolbox and roof fitted.

Thank you all for your assistance.

Regards,

Paul

[Bob Carriere]

A suggestion....... CORRECTION I was wrong on the re inforcement to the side panel hook/strap........... I have seen them BUT cannot says they are original based onthe other cargo boxes I have on hand........ it would make sense if it showed to be a problem but does not seem to be a factory assembly....a field modification at best. My apologies..

the "L" shaped brackets, that I have seen, on the front corner of the cargo box has a 45 degree brace that allows more tension to be placed on the side panel. If you find yours rattle after a while you might want to do the n modification.....not sure if they were field modification driven by necessirty or factory.

What are your plans for the ceiling pads.... or will you wear a helmet???

Cheers

PS....... Wait until you drive to a service station and try to fit the nozzle into the fuel tank..........

............. the answer...... bring a 40 cm lenght of radiator hose same size as used on the cab 11.....

[Paul Edwards]

Hi Bob,

That sounds like a good field/factory mod on those brackets. CORRECTION NOTED ABOVE

I wasn't aware of any ceiling pads before you mentioned it a while back, I have sourced some fibrous black felt (Auto sound deadening quilt). It may need doubling up on the thickness, but I'll see what it looks like before committing to glue.

My donkey dick (rad hose) is in hand!

PS, I'm aware the bullnose roof trim is not correct but it can stay until I find the correct profile.

Cheers,


Paul

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Paul

That trim must be available somewhere. Your posting reminded me to do mine. Lucky to have salvaged one years ago..... very thinned out by rust but still good. I lightly sand blasted for fear of cutting it in two....primed and painted.
After a couple of coats of POR 15 Grant did most of the installing. Had to order special round/flat tops in SS one inch size.....pre drilled the hard ash wood and it looks great. I should have acid dipped my screw heads first to help the of flat paint stick to them so come Spring I will dab each screw head with acid and repaint the whole cab.

For the roof pads......centered over each set....use a plumb line. I used one inch thick commercial high density grey foam cut to 16 /12 inches square and spray painted with automotive rubber spray..... 3 coats with time to dry in between...... also sprayed the back side one coat in case it curled. Finally glued with black PolyUrethane calking spread with a putty knife. As my roof was currently upside down on the work bench, I used two sand bags (40kg) to allow the glue to cure.....looks very good and still pliable.

To impress people at the gas station I usually pull out a CMP or UC sques funnel and attach the proper "horsecock" to the funnel then fill the tank until it spills over........ gets me a few laughs and the over spilling eventually washes the paint off the tank and requires a touch up.

Now if only Spring can get here!!!!