Info needed: C15A 2B1 cargo bed rebuild

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Nice job Paul. Always good to see those early bodies being brought back to life. Seems their construction is more complicated than the later 2C1 bodies.

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

On the cab 13 they are semi circle and meant to be steps.

The body you refer to has both the holes for the lights to shine through plus semi-circle holes as footsteps.

I have never seen pics of CMPs driving with their tail gates open. There is no means to fix it in the down position, it would flap, make a racket and eventually break.

A55F70D7-E65F-4DB7-93CC-900B8F16993A.jpeg

[Paul Edwards]

Thank gents very helpful.

Does anyone have pattern/measurements for the metal rear mud flaps?

Apparently the footman loops are very similar to those on the GP found on Joe's Motor Pool here in the UK

Cheers,


Paul

[Paul Edwards]

Today's progress, hinges

Footman loops on order from Joe's Motor Pool UK, these are meant for GP Jeeps but very similar.

Any mud flap information welcome.

Next will be hood bows

[Hanno Spoelstra]

If you’re making hood bows make sure to use a wide enough radius. It should measure 10 inches IIRC. I’ll check my measurements when I’m back home.

Just mentioning this as I often see repro hood bows with a radius which is too small.

[Paul Edwards]

Thanks Hanno, I appreciate that, I want it to be correct and only pay out once.

Cheers,


Paul

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Paul

Your early 2B1 was made before the "rubber" restrictions.......so your flaps should be plain 1/4 in. thick rubber bolted to the rear flat mud defector of your truck.

PS...... on your truck box...underneath.....the rear floor support bracket closest the rear wheel has a 45 degree inclination...... a flat piece of steel.....fairly stiff is bolted flat to that cross member....bolt holes should be visible....... in turn the rubber mud flap is bolted to the bottom edge of the deflector......

[Grant Bowker]

The mounting holes on the structure of the 2B1 box Bob refers to for mud deflectors are highlighted in the modified version of your photo attached.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

If you’re making hood bows make sure to use a wide enough radius. It should measure 10 inches IIRC. I’ll check my measurements when I’m back home.

Just mentioning this as I often see repro hood bows with a radius which is too small.

See the thread Top Bows - 15-cwt truck for photos and dimensions. AFAIK the dimensions for the 2B1 box are the same as for the 2C1.

[chris vickery]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

The body you refer to has both the holes for the lights to shine through plus semi-circle holes as footsteps. I have never seen pics of CMPs driving with their tail gates open. There is no means to fix it in the down position, it would flap, make a racket and eventually break.

Hanno, I have seen this, matter of fact if I recall it is in one of the Gregg books.
Engineers building corduroy roads in Europe shovelling gravel off the back in what appears to be a three ton with a row of others in front and behind…

[Paul Edwards]

Thanks guy.

Cheers,


Paul

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by chris vickery

Hanno, I have seen this, matter of fact if I recall it is in one of the Gregg books.
Engineers building corduroy roads in Europe shovelling gravel off the back in what appears to be a three ton with a row of others in front and behind…

Chris,

Thanks, I recall that photo now. Though I'd say that's hardly driving for which lighting is required?

[Paul Edwards]

And does the rubber bolt to the inside of the wheel arch flap or on the external face of the flap, ie showing the reinforcing plate on the rear view

Looking at period photos looks like inside the wheel arch then I look again at others and I begin to doubt myself.

Cheers,

Paul

[Grant Bowker]

The shadows of the brace and flap are both definitely on the same side of the steel panel, the rear face. Since this is only one sample, it is possible that others could have been assembled differently.

[Paul Edwards]

Thank you Grant.

Regards,


Paul

[Paul Edwards]

Hi Guys,

Making progress while the sun shines. Primed, two-Pak and Egg shell coats applied. The Matt coat will done once on the truck.

Now, I've ordered the Canvas from Worthing's. Here's my next dilemma, what would you guys do.

Leather tie down straps (as per early models) or perhaps more practical rope tie downs? As per pictures.

Cheers,


Paul

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

I have never seen pics of CMPs driving with their tail gates open. There is no means to fix it in the down position, it would flap, make a racket and eventually break.

Now I have - see https://youtu.be/O2Cy5Y9_M8Q?t=163 for footage of a Canadian truck in Oostburg, The Netherlands, during the Battle for the Scheldt.

Slag om de Schelde 4 - Oostburg.jpg

[Paul Edwards]

Cheers Hanno,

We're working now on reskinning the rear tail gate as rust had got the better of it and put the clean line of the cargo panels we have already done to shame.

I'll post some pictures once we get the skin stamping back from our panel guy and start re-assembling the gate.

Cheers,


Paul

[Paul Edwards]

Tailgate worse for wear so opted for a new skin, making good progress and hoping to get some paint on this weekend before the weather changes.

Cheers,


Paul

[Danny Devers]

Very nice work Paul that looks great.

[Bob Carriere]

....can we see a shot of the inside...gate hanging down??

so much easier when you start with a good piece of flat steel.......

Any complications with the riveting....?

Cheers

[Paul Edwards]

Bob, no complications with the riveted hinges................we cheated!

We obtained some threaded rivets and bolted them on and dressed the nut with a welded blob on the inner face................Who will look in there? only us anoraks!

Sometimes due to financial or tooling constraints we have to make sacrifices to originality, I hope it doesn't offend.

Cheers,


Paul