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  #1  
Old 28-12-19, 01:21
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Got the clutch pedal all sorted out. I found the weight of the pedal was pushing it down causing the throw out bearing to reconnect on the clutch finger springs. Once the spring was installed there was the textbook free play achieved with the push of my fingers. I forgot to take a picture of the springs. Will do that another time.

Also for the time I had today, I got the first propellor shaft installed between the transmission and the transfer case. All new mounting hardware was used along with new universal joints. The shouldered bolts were made from cut down grade 8 7/16 bolts. These gave the correct length of shoulder to match the originals.
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RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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Old 29-12-19, 01:26
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Here is a picture of the other spring I added.
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RHLI Museum,
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C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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Old 29-12-19, 03:34
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default hmmm

I didn't notice previously but on mine that green spring is attached to the brake pedal and the clutch has a spring as i described directly on the clutch fork.
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Old 31-12-19, 00:56
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Ok thanks all for the advice on the clutch fork spring. There is a hole on the master cylinder metal mount that will work for the other end of the spring.


This afternoons project was to work on the exhaust pipe and muffler. I picked up a NOS muffler and exhaust pipe awhile back. However this pipe must have been for longer chassis as I had to cut out a section so the muffler would sit on the frame mount for it.

One question I do have, What is supposed to be used to seal the gap between muffler end and the exhaust pipe where the pipe slides into the muffler? Hopefully I have explained that clear enough to make sense.
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RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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Old 31-12-19, 23:01
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Who says it needs to be sealed?????

.....it is meant to muffle not to silence the engine......so you have less back pressure while doing 45 mph downhill with not tarp and a tailwind.......

You will not hear the engine above the gears whining....... front end shaking.....clutch linkage rattling....., fan moaning, doors squeaking , windshield whistling and Vicky yelling SLOW DOWN.....

You have to start it at least on New Years Day................ hey I drove mine on the front driveshaft for months until I had a rear one made..... then found the original in a corner of the shed......

Cheers and Happy New Years to you and Vicky Victrola or is it Victoria......!!!
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C15a Cab 11
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Old 31-12-19, 23:21
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Happy New Years to you as well.

I made up a sleeve today that has sealed up that spot very well. I’m thinking I might go visit the exhaust shop next week and see about getting a new pipe and muffler made up in stainless.

I’ll see if Vicki is up for it. The truck still has a few things I want to do before driving it. I was hopeful I’d get them done this past eeek but that hasn’t happened.
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10cwt Canadian trailer
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Old 31-12-19, 23:38
Maurice Donckers Maurice Donckers is offline
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that down pipe will last for years , be careful with stainless steel , it will not get rid of the heat as quickly as steel , therefore your manifold will get hotter , and distort.
I have an exhaust with silencer for years on my CGT now , and still performs well .
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