How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Maurice Donckers]

Jordan , in your post about the Bonnet catches you show 2 NOS ones , did you notice that they are Ford produced ones ? the Chevrolet versions are not so far folded round .

[Jordan Baker]

I’ve never noticed a difference in them.

Originally Posted by Maurice Donckers

Jordan , in your post about the Bonnet catches you show 2 NOS ones , did you notice that they are Ford produced ones ? the Chevrolet versions are not so far folded round .

[Jordan Baker]

I thought I’d compare the truck windshield to the armoured window for the Otter. Just a slight difference in size.

I also made up the last throttle linkage I needed. Now just to do all the minor adjustments. Lastly the gas pedal got a new pivot pin as well the old one was non existent. I’ll hopefully have this all sorted out tomorrow.

[Jordan Baker]

I’m trying to sort out the clutch linkage. Where does the clutch arm return spring hook onto? I’m guessing the spring should be pulled towards the front of the truck?

Also, at the pedal end. Is there a return spring hooking onto the clevis pin like brake pedal?

I’ve adjusted the pedal and linkage as per the manual, however I feel there should be a return spring or two somewhere in here.

[Bob Carriere]

....BUT GM did sell a civilian after market clutch rattle spring device that fitted at the other end to keep the linkage slightly tighter.

The Clutch springs should be enough to bring the pedal back but no harm will come if you do install a somewhat weak spring from the clevis to front frame.

Will you have it out for New Years day??????

Bob C

[Jordan Baker]

I’m thinking I’ll need one. With the 1” free play, I’m finding the pedal wants to drop towards the toe board. If I adjust so there is no drop the throw out bearing is up tight against the clutch fingers.

As for New Years.........well will see. I don’t want to rush things just to hit that date. I still need to install the propeller shafts, rear axle shafts and sort out the exhaust pipe.

[Jordan Baker]

Got the clutch pedal all sorted out. I found the weight of the pedal was pushing it down causing the throw out bearing to reconnect on the clutch finger springs. Once the spring was installed there was the textbook free play achieved with the push of my fingers. I forgot to take a picture of the springs. Will do that another time.

Also for the time I had today, I got the first propellor shaft installed between the transmission and the transfer case. All new mounting hardware was used along with new universal joints. The shouldered bolts were made from cut down grade 8 7/16 bolts. These gave the correct length of shoulder to match the originals.

[Harry Moon]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

I’m trying to sort out the clutch linkage. Where does the clutch arm return spring hook onto? I’m guessing the spring should be pulled towards the front of the truck?

Also, at the pedal end. Is there a return spring hooking onto the clevis pin like brake pedal?

I’ve adjusted the pedal and linkage as per the manual, however I feel there should be a return spring or two somewhere in here.

In taking apart my latest project and pulling parts off that i haven't before I spotted the hole in the brake M/C bracket that anchors the clutch spring .. didn't know it was there. I'll check my other trucks to see what i did.

[Harry Moon]

10 characters!

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks for the pictures Harry.

I did a full rebuild on my transmission shifter. It didn’t need much other then building up the pivot slots with some weld then grinding down again. I don’t have a finished picture just yet. It does amaze me just how much wear these parts can take and still work. Hopefully with everything back to as new specs this truck will shift nicely. I also added a new return spring for the lockout latch. I believe this is the proper orientation of it.

[Jordan Baker]

Today I pulled out some NOS parts to use for securing the box to the chassis. The wood blocks were used to fit between frame so that it didn’t crush down when tightening the U bolt nuts. The one wood block had to have a part cut off to clear a bolt.