How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

Out of curiosity are you going to paint the tips of the fan?

Reason I ask is that I've gone over to painting the outer 2 inches of the fan blades front and back either white or red for safety reasons. It hurts when you gets your fingers hit. I paint both front and back because if you paint only the back side there is one angle looking from the right that all you see is edge and the front of the blade.

Looks like you are getting close to running the engine on the test stand, so much nicer to find those little leaks or noises when the engine is out of the truck. Have also found it is a lot easier to run the engine though a couple of heat cycles and re-torque the head. Adjusting the valves is so easy when you can walk around the engine.

Looking forward to the first engine run video.

Nice work on the fan shroud.

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

I thought about painting the tips but then didn’t.

Anyway I got he engine running up for its first extended time. When I filled the radiator tonight I was quite happy about no leaks anywhere until it started leaking. I realized that I missed putting the gasket in when the thermostat goes. So I drained the system and pulled that apart and got the gasket installed. All is good now. I also had changed out the side pan gasket. The one I had out on was garbage. The gasket itself soaked up oil and was like a sponge. Felpro to the rescue and no leaks.

The first video is without a tail pipe. I then loosely put the tail pipe on. The metal clinking noise you can hear is the exhaust pipe rattling

https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=L83cKSWlW3Y

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dI9Ckf...ature=youtu.be

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

Looks and sound good. Yes getting the side panel to seal can be a real problem. I've had similar problem with "new" gaskets leaking through the material, for me it was the thermostat gasket that just plain weeped.

When I was working on the 235 and 261 I ran the engine with a lexon clear side cover and was surprised how much oil is standing in the side valve gallery when the engine is running. Other thing that showed up was how much condensation forms inside that cover shortly after starting. Will look to see if I have video clear side cover on the 216.

Like what category your engine test videos are listed, "comedy".

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

Work continued on the rear harness over the past few days. I’m not sure if they sent the right one or if the one they based it off of was different. Anyhow out of the box it needed to be worked on. Once I finished fixing it, everything lined up and the harness fit. I then started installing the wire braiding over the harness. This afternoon I started to install into the frame but ran out of time.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

Ok now that I see your harness think I can explain the difference. They changed the location of the rear tail light blackout switch from on side frame rail with a head light dimmer switch through the frame rail, to late version that had a toggle switch on the drivers side tail lights mounting.

Now that I've seen yours will try and take some photos of the three different rear harness versions on my trucks.

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

This past week I have been working away on the front harness. I ended up drawing out a new wiring diagram from the perspective of standing in front of the truck looking back. Basically where you’d stand. Initially I had trouble sorting out the lighting toggle switches but then realized the wiring harness was made for SPST switches and not the TPST ones used on the later trucks. The Ford wiring diagram shows this much better. I made up a few jumpers to be soldered into the harness.

One question I do have. Do I have the green wires on my drawing correct? That power comes off that circuit overload piece and then the wires split into 6 individual wires going to the inspection lamp socket, dash lamp switch, tail lamp switch, tail/side switch, tail/side/headlamp switch and stop isolation switch?

[Jordan Baker]

More wiring.

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

This past week I have been working away on the front harness.

One question I do have. Do I have the green wires on my drawing correct? That power comes off that circuit overload piece and then the wires split into 6 individual wires going to the inspection lamp socket, dash lamp switch, tail lamp switch, tail/side switch, tail/side/headlamp switch and stop isolation switch?

Hi Jordan

From my notes the green wires in the drawing match my HUP.

But I'm not sure of the stop isolation switch, as I wired that switch different and added a turns signal flasher and a warning light which turned the function of that switch into rear hazard flasher. Brake light always works when peddle is pressed, dash warning light comes on. If the brake isolation switch is thrown, power goes to through the flasher causing the brake lights and the dash warning light to flash. If the brake peddle is pushed the brake light come on.

Your work is so neat, and nicely layed out.

Cheers Phil