A little light entertainment: 1939 Ford 1 ton Utility restoration

[jack neville]

Most of the locks and catches are there and can be salvaged. Not one screw or bolt could be removed even with plenty of heat so the two outer skins were cut off. I melted most of the bolts out and removed all the fittings leaving the inner panel bare.
The first photo shows the second skin over the original.

[jack neville]

The inner panel needs sandblasting obviously and a fair bit of repair and straightening. I will need to make new catches and housings and then reskin the outside.

[jack neville]

The tailgate and other salvaged rear body parts are off to be sandblasted.
I dragged out the new panels to start on the new sides.
First knock a bit more shape back into the original side and then lay it on the new panel and scribe out the shape to cut.

[jack neville]

Next cut some excess back.
I cut two formers out of 17mm formply.

[jack neville]

After clamping the new sheetmetal between the two formers I tapped out the wheel arch and front bottom edge. The rear bottom edge has a curved shaped section so I folded down some excess metal to form that up.

[jack neville]

The edges turned up ok and look good. The rear shape is a large curve so I carved a piece of timber the correct shape to use as a form block. It fitted neatly into the original old panel.

[jack neville]

I wasn't sure how to get the curve into the sheetmetal as it needed to be folded evenly and with enough pressure to get it to follow the timber. I decided to clamp the panel down to my bench and make a rudimentary device to make the curve. There are already two holes on the side of the bench so I bolted square tube as arms to each side and welded another piece to join them. Pulling down on the arms dragged the cross piece hard against the sheetmetal and pulled the sheetmetal down.

[jack neville]

That worked pretty well but it got a bit loose at the end of the arc so I jammed some timber in to tighten it while I trimmed one end and dressed the edge. A little heat was needed or the tight spots.

[jack neville]

So far it is coming along nicely.

[Mike K]

Very nice work , a little patience and thinking and it all works out

[Ganmain Tony]

Nice work Jack..

When you say 'Carved' how did you shape the timber?

I'm sure you weren't sitting there whittling with a pen knife

Incidentally, what's the thickness of the sheet metal you're working with?

[jack neville]

Thanks lads.

Actually Tony I used a bit of old fashioned method. Spokeshave and a speed file.

[jack neville]

I also have 1940 and 1941 models of these 1 ton utes that I might get to one day. I need a few more bits for the current body as it is lacking military fittings having been a rear body off a civilian model. Today I took the back off the 1940 model. You can see it has been made a bit wider and has been extensively modified over a hard life. But it will contribute quite a bit.

[Mike K]

I know of two of those battery staff utes being restored in QLD , the 39 model that J Belfield had and a 40 model owned by Danny Stanton. I've seen a few of the V chevron tread 700-17 tyres around , I think Olympic made a batch of them in the 1960s ... the late Ken Morris had them fitted on his 39 battery staff ute ... His 39 had a home made tray and a 49 engine , he bought it from a property at Jindivick for $50 , late 1970's. Ken drove it to many club outings, the ute was in a semi restored condition but Ieast it was on the road at least.

[Mike K]

This chap in QLD ? has restored a 41 model

https://www.facebook.com/events/coro...6254409730292/

[jack neville]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

This chap in QLD ? has restored a 41 model

https://www.facebook.com/events/coro...6254409730292/

Did that one depart for foreign shores?

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by jack neville

Did that one depart for foreign shores?

Don't know. You would have to ask somebody like Danny Stanton.

[jack neville]

Both rear body side panels have been largely formed up. I will leave the trimming of the top corners till later, and the same with the bottom rear corners.

[jack neville]

Still waiting on parts to be sandblasted and new timber for the rear so in the meantime I will dress up some timber for the front windscreen top section of the cabin hood. This is a crappy job that requires a lot of carving and fitting and carving and fitting to get the two pieces to fit the top of the windscreen just right. I have the remains of the original as a pattern but it is badly weathered and warped out of original shape but it is a clue.

[jack neville]

I got one side pretty close and sitting neat on the top of the windscreen frame. Once I finish the other side I can work on joining them in the middle.

[jack neville]

One of these makes for easy carving.

[Wayne Hingley]

Wow... that’s cool. Hadn’t seen one of those before.

Your progress is coming along nicely Jack. I enjoy watching you work your magic.

[jack neville]

Thanks Wayne.
Yes they are a very handy device. A bit treacherous and make a hell of a mess.
You end up with saw dust everywhere. Wouldn’t like to try one in a 9” grinder.

[jack neville]

Joined up and sanded off. Sits nice and snug. Glad to have that done. Only about 12 hours work. It screws to the folding arms of the hood bow arrangement which is in good condition and only needs blasting and painting. And new canvas of course but that will come later.

[Lionelgee]

Originally Posted by jack neville

One of these makes for easy carving.

Hello Jack,

Is that disk called an "arbotech" or something like that?

Kind regards
Lionel

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Lionelgee

Is that disk called an "arbotech" or something like that?

King Arthur's Tools

The Lancelot!

[jack neville]

Originally Posted by Tony Smith

King Arthur's Tools

The Lancelot!

That’s it.

[jack neville]

I am lucky to have the remains of an original hood even though it is from my 1940 model ute it is the same as the 39 pattern. What it contains is the original rear window frame. Strange that you would put something as heavy as a steel frame and glass window into a canvas hood but they did. I might opt for perspex instead of glass but I"m pleased that the steel frame is not beyond repair.

[jack neville]

I had a look at my doors today. One is not too bad being reasonably straight but rusted out at the bottom. The hinges are still tight which is to be expected from a left side door. (passenger side for Australia). Sand blasting and patching the rust should do this one..

[jack neville]

The right side is not as good. It has sustained a few hits which have dented the inner frame and caused the flanges to separate from the outer skin in a couple of places. I couldn't straighten the inner frame with the door intact so I have removed the outer skin to effect the repair. I will see how it comes up after sandblasting to see whether I can put it back together or need to make a new outer skin.













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