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#1
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It is that piece, (6.3075 in the parts photo) along with an appropriate amount of shims, (6.3076 in the photo) that sets the front wheel bearing preload.
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#2
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Now that my head banging moment is sorted out I managed to get the left side knuckle installed. Using the idea from both Phil and Rob for using the shop hoist, things went very smoothly. The felt retainer bolts are quoted in the manual as being torqued to 30 foot pounds. I did this, for all the other ones I couldn’t find any reference to torque specs so I went wih 50 foot pounds. I also sorted out the safety wire and got the 4 bolts all wired up.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#3
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I also got the right side knuckle built up.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#4
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Front drums went back on and then I followed the bearing pre load steps in the manual. After installing the wheels I can feel very very very minor rocking in the right side. The left side has no rocking at all. I’m thinking the drum may not have fully seated on the splines.
92F9F2DB-3BB6-4DC0-A6F9-FCBD60216185.jpeg DA5400C0-44AB-4EB2-A96F-E033B3D2D206.jpeg F82F3F5B-36F9-4E32-A781-B965AC89F17C.jpeg Lastly I’ve got all the original brass brake junction blocks to go back on. Any suggestions on cleaning these up? I’m thinking that sandblasting them will be to hard on them? C8406251-5E59-46A6-A9BF-3A0356CDBB93.jpg 5CFB348F-AC08-41FC-BA0F-937CAFE80DE9.jpg
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#5
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For the exterior surfaces a wire wheel on your bench grinder should be quite fierce enough - basically rubbing off any little bits and polishing the surface. For internal passages a drill bit held/twisted in your fingers to clear any solid bits. For the thread and seat areas - handheld wire brush, gentle picking, perhaps spray brake cleaner would dissolve hardened or dried on brake fluid.
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#6
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Shining is wearing. You do not want to distort the sealing ring areas, nor pit the areas where the flares of the lines go.
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#7
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Either that or you have too may shims in between the two bearings. Try and remove one and see if the play goes away. |
#8
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Hi Rob.
It never had any shims in it when I took it apart. I’ll try it on another spline and see if it seats better. As for the brake junctions. I’m not really worried about the exterior. I just wanted to get the small bits of compacted rust out from inside the flare ports. I’ve got the bits soaking in some evapo rust solution.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#9
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I find that using Glass instead of sand for blasting cleans up the surface really good without doing any damage to the piece.
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#10
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If moving it on the splines doesn't fix it, then it may be that the center spacer is too long for that particular knuckle. To discount the spacer, remove it altogether then re-assemble the hub and see if the freeplay disappears. If so, then the spacer is too long or there is some other part out of spec. The bearings should be at proper preload. Any chance you misplaced the outer bearing spacer (6.3074 on your parts illustration) or is it even applicable to your later hub?
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