How To: Restore a Morris or keep fit

[T Creighton]

Well done with getting your studs out Mike.
That is a crafty tool you made.
Not having any thing like that, I cut the studs about an inch long and welded a nut to them.
Some came out easily but about a third of them snapped off and I had to drill the broken piece out. Anywhere they protruded into the water jacket they were well seized up.
Will you be able to use the studs you have taken out?
If not, do you have a source of new ones?
Terry

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by T Creighton

Well done with getting your studs out Mike.
That is a crafty tool you made.
Not having any thing like that, I cut the studs about an inch long and welded a nut to them.
Some came out easily but about a third of them snapped off and I had to drill the broken piece out. Anywhere they protruded into the water jacket they were well seized up.
Will you be able to use the studs you have taken out?
If not, do you have a source of new ones?
Terry

Hi Terry

Yes if the water jacket corrosion has affected the stud threads , this can cause major headaches as you discovered . I did think of welding nuts on like you did . I will machine some new 12mm studs out of something strong maybe stainless , I will have to research that. Did you use a anti seize coating on your new studs ?

Did you have hard valve seats fitted ? I noticed in the 1940 MCC manual , they had valve seat inserts way back then - not sure if these were fitted from new ? My 1950 land Rover has exhaust seat inserts ( a requirement because many export areas eg Africa had low grade petrol ) , I replaced these with new seats from Cox & Turner. I've seen a few botched jobs where the new inserts crack, or become loose .

[T Creighton]

Hi Mike,
My engine is away, with a newly ground crank, at one of the few firms that can do new white metal mains and big ends so I won't have to worry about new studs until it gets back to the re-conditioner who is doing the job. I would prefer rolled threads and high tensile steel. It looks like some helicoil inserts will be needed as well.
The block has hard exhaust valve seats that look in good enough condition, although they have a huge selection of new inserts, and they will make new guides which will be cheaper than new ones from Cox and Turner.
I have already bought new liners, pistons and a full set of valves.
The dollars are mounting up not to mention the time all this takes.
Terry.

[Mike K]

The camshaft is seized, will not rotate at all - rock solid Any ideas ????? The oil pump is still in situ but that isnt causing the problem .

The spring loaded button provides a slight preload onto the camshaft, the button rides against the timing cover . Apparently the helical gear drive to the oil pump/distributor provides the pushing force onto the spring loaded button , forcing it against the timing cover ?

I think moisture has made its way into the camshaft bearings , and over time these bearings have seized . In theory the camshaft should pull out easily .

[Mike K]

I think I found the problem, for an unknown reason, the camshaft has moved forward slightly and the helical drive gear on the camshaft is jammed into the oil pump/distributor drive gear .

[Mike K]

I have the engine stripped down.

Does anyone know of a good engine rebuilder - familiar with older vintage engines ? All I need is the block bored and exhaust seats installed , that's it . I am willing to travel. There is one in Bendigo but closer would be better .

I have been asking around but it seems that most of the good experienced rebuilders have retired . Somebody said some engine rebuilders have shut down because modern engines last for 500,00k typically and people these days just buy a new car .

[Chris Collins]

Is Geelong too far? go have a chat to Rod Smith or Robin Mawson, they've a lot of experience with older stuff, Rodney is the Technical officer of the Vic Morris register and Robin has a variety of Military vehicles.

http://www.mawsonmotors.com/

Cheers

Chris