How To: Restore a Morris or keep fit

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by T Creighton

Hi Mike, Do you think it is possible to replace that felt ring with a conventional seal? I don't want to risk oil on my expensive new woven brake linings.
Cheers., Terry

I have been wondering if a modern hub seal can be fitted to the rear axle hubs on the CS8 . After looking at how the hub is designed - in the case of the CS8, I feel it would be a difficult conversion . I am not certain about how the 4x4 hub is set up but it appears to be similar to the CS8 rear hub, maybe you and Paul can come up with a solution .

[pauldavies]

Thanks Mike and Richard it would seem I need to learn how to drive a rare vehicle such as the C8, I have the Morris Manual (as shown)but all information is gold and yes if all else fails Mike send it up and I will return it. I will have to do a bit of thinking regarding the seal as I suppose there must be modern day alternatives it's just how to fit them in. There is a company in Sydney who will supply just about anything seals & bearings wise, will have to look into it.
Many thanks to all.Shame about the AWM listing but I hope the Morris Register can come up with something, they are having a Morris meet in Maryborough QLD next year which I will be attending.

[Mike K]

Somebody has similar thoughts re the felt seals

http://users.boardnation.com/~mcc/in...y;threadid=233

[Mike K]

At the sandblaster again today , dropping off the various castings like spring hangers and other bits. He has done the wheels I dropped off last week.

The RSL 25 pounder has been blasted, it is now in a glossy green . Looking over it, all the bits are dated 1941 . Would this be UK manufacture ? I forgot to take pics but I drive past the RSL regularly where it will be permanently displayed .

[T Creighton]

Originally Posted by Mike Kelly

I have been wondering if a modern hub seal can be fitted to the rear axle hubs on the CS8 . After looking at how the hub is designed - in the case of the CS8, I feel it would be a difficult conversion . I am not certain about how the 4x4 hub is set up but it appears to be similar to the CS8 rear hub, maybe you and Paul can come up with a solution .

It looks like a 3 1/2 x 4 7/16 x 3/8 conventional seal could fit instead of the felt seal and it's retainer ring, but the seal lip would only just bear on the journal of the distance piece.
Machining the flange on the distance piece could allow the seal to move out a bit but then it may be not far enough inside the hub bore.
It would be a gamble to alter a distance piece to find it did not work.
If I could find some new felt rings I would stick to that system.
Terry.

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by T Creighton

It looks like a 3 1/2 x 4 7/16 x 3/8 conventional seal could fit instead of the felt seal and it's retainer ring, but the seal lip would only just bear on the journal of the distance piece.
Machining the flange on the distance piece could allow the seal to move out a bit but then it may be not far enough inside the hub bore.
It would be a gamble to alter a distance piece to find it did not work.
If I could find some new felt rings I would stick to that system.
Terry.

Yes I see the problem. The same design is used on the CS8 . Ideally the distance piece journal should be extended , but how. A new distance piece could be machined up but that is not a easy solution. Just realised the journal cannot be extended !

The felt rings on mine were all leaking and some quantity of oil/grease got onto the backing plates . The linings themselves were not affected . OVERFILLING OF THE DIFF WOULD BE A DISASTER ..

[Mike K]

The chassis, rims and other bits are back from the local sandblaster . BTW the FORD LP2A ? MG carrier, the blaster had this stored , has been sold to somebody in Melbourne recently, it needs a lot of work done.

The chassis on the Morris CS8 is a flimsy affair. With the axles/springs removed , the chassis wobbles around like a lump of jelly. I can lift the chassis up and flip it over , try doing that with a blitz chassis and your chiropractor will be smiling all the way to the bank. Being a 4x2, the designers may have opted for a 'walking chassis' allowing for the rough terrain ?

[Mike K]

Been working on the Morris engine, it's a 3.5 litre side valve, a engine pinched from the contemporary 1930's Morris 25HP saloon with a few ancillaries changed around eg carby and stuff

I obtained a set of NOS +20 thou pistons years ago, so this particular engine is getting a rebore soon. I came to the dreaded job of removing the head studs in the block OH dear ... this type of job has hidden dangers and any number of things can go wrong .

Being of sound mind Hmmm I decided to make my own stud puller .

The wedge is a piece of square section file , it has been ground to a taper . The puller has been used with success ! The wedge teeth grab the stud and the more turning force you add, the wedge will pull itself in, self locking

Heat the stud at the base to a dull red, let it cool and apply the WD40 or whatever , PB blaster is good .

[T Creighton]

Well done with getting your studs out Mike.
That is a crafty tool you made.
Not having any thing like that, I cut the studs about an inch long and welded a nut to them.
Some came out easily but about a third of them snapped off and I had to drill the broken piece out. Anywhere they protruded into the water jacket they were well seized up.
Will you be able to use the studs you have taken out?
If not, do you have a source of new ones?
Terry

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by T Creighton

Well done with getting your studs out Mike.
That is a crafty tool you made.
Not having any thing like that, I cut the studs about an inch long and welded a nut to them.
Some came out easily but about a third of them snapped off and I had to drill the broken piece out. Anywhere they protruded into the water jacket they were well seized up.
Will you be able to use the studs you have taken out?
If not, do you have a source of new ones?
Terry

Hi Terry

Yes if the water jacket corrosion has affected the stud threads , this can cause major headaches as you discovered . I did think of welding nuts on like you did . I will machine some new 12mm studs out of something strong maybe stainless , I will have to research that. Did you use a anti seize coating on your new studs ?

Did you have hard valve seats fitted ? I noticed in the 1940 MCC manual , they had valve seat inserts way back then - not sure if these were fitted from new ? My 1950 land Rover has exhaust seat inserts ( a requirement because many export areas eg Africa had low grade petrol ) , I replaced these with new seats from Cox & Turner. I've seen a few botched jobs where the new inserts crack, or become loose .