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  #1  
Old 12-07-16, 23:14
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Jonathan Moore Jonathan Moore is offline
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More picture.

Regards,

Jonathan
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  #2  
Old 12-07-16, 23:33
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Hello Pieter,

Everything is home made, the only actual details, measurements that I had were either from Robert Morrison in Canada or from a Vehicle that I photographed. Everything else has been gained by studying photos on the web and believe me I have spent hours doing that. If the rim that you are referring to is the one in the picture, then it is copied from Roberts. Obviously artistic licence has to come into it as I do not have the tooling that they used back then.

If you are in the UK feel free to come over.

Regards,

Jonathan
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  #3  
Old 14-07-16, 09:47
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Pieter,
If the bearings that you refer to are these, on either side of the hatch, then I turned up them on a lathe. For the shaft I used high tensile 1/4" UNF Counter sunk screws. I can imagine that there will be those who wouldn't agree with using these as the shaft but firstly, one, is not going to be constantly opening and shutting the hatch and secondly it was to help with getting the free play for the bearing right before welding. Also the load is taken on the shaft and on the taper of the head. I taped the receiving arm 1/4" UNF, then put the bearing on the shaft, screwed it in and nipped it up.
I then ground the end of the shaft that pertruded out of the receiving arm flush and disassembled it all. Then grind a taper on the end of the shaft for the weld to catch in. Grease and Reassemble it all, adjust the end play so that the bearing isn't too tight or too loose, weld the shaft in place and grind flush.

Sorry if that was teaching Granny to suck eggs, but I hope that it helps.

Jonathan
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  #4  
Old 20-07-16, 11:26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Moore View Post
Pieter,
If the bearings that you refer to are these, on either side of the hatch, then I turned up them on a lathe. For the shaft I used high tensile 1/4" UNF Counter sunk screws. I can imagine that there will be those who wouldn't agree with using these as the shaft but firstly, one, is not going to be constantly opening and shutting the hatch and secondly it was to help with getting the free play for the bearing right before welding. Also the load is taken on the shaft and on the taper of the head. I taped the receiving arm 1/4" UNF, then put the bearing on the shaft, screwed it in and nipped it up.
I then ground the end of the shaft that pertruded out of the receiving arm flush and disassembled it all. Then grind a taper on the end of the shaft for the weld to catch in. Grease and Reassemble it all, adjust the end play so that the bearing isn't too tight or too loose, weld the shaft in place and grind flush.

Sorry if that was teaching Granny to suck eggs, but I hope that it helps.

Jonathan

Jonathan,

Thanks for the explanation I was looking for an answer on that one too however referring to the bearing I meant the red circled item in the picture.
I guess that you did not add the locking device which is originally in the handle(?)
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  #5  
Old 22-07-16, 22:48
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Oh those bearing housings. They are mild steel blocks machined to size, drilled, tapped, drilled, reamed as required and cross drilled and tapped for the grease nipples. Then I machined and ground them to the desired shape. No, the handles do not contain the locking mechanism, as I could not obtain the required information when I made them. However should it become available then it can be added.

Jonathan
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  #6  
Old 24-07-16, 19:05
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I have been busy today repairing the front inner Wheel arches. Next job, lift the body in the air and spray underneath.

Jonathan
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  #7  
Old 24-07-16, 19:13
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More pictures
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  #8  
Old 24-07-16, 19:22
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Jonathan

Do you have pictures of the emergency brake specially inside the breakdrum?
I'm working on the brake cilinders right now
And the emergency lever connected to the brake shoe
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  #9  
Old 24-07-16, 22:30
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Lovely work Jonathan....and thanks for keeping us updated. Great to see the C8a coming back to life, after loosing it's body so long ago.

regards,

Alex
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  #10  
Old 24-07-16, 22:39
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Sorry, I didn't take pictures of that. There is a picture in the workshop manual but I have a new laptop with windows 10 and I am buggered if I can work out how to get the bloody printer to scan. What was wrong with windows 8.

Jonathan
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  #11  
Old 26-07-16, 14:22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan Moore View Post
Sorry, I didn't take pictures of that. There is a picture in the workshop manual but I have a new laptop with windows 10 and I am buggered if I can work out how to get the bloody printer to scan. What was wrong with windows 8.

Jonathan

How about the brakecilinders where did you dig those up...
also question on the central wheel nut what kind of wrench do you use to fix the nut ? I'm looking for a wrenchcap(?) don't know the English word to fit the 70mm wide nut (its quite big)
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  #12  
Old 27-07-16, 10:39
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Here you go, if you have problem, I will get the link off ebay. In my opinion the front brake pipe, chassis to axle, could do with being a bit shorter. I couldn't find a socket to fit the large nuts, so I made a very crude one to suit. It works a lot better than a hammer and chisel, which is what had been used in the past by previous mechanics.

All of the parts that I have been waiting for have turned up so I was able to get the rear axle in and the brakes installed. It took quite a lot of searching to find some of the components so I will post where the parts came from.

Rear brake cylinders - Ebay (usa)
Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder-Professional Grade Front Raybestos WC3406( 161726933472 )

Rear spring u bolts and long nuts - ATS springs www.ATSsprings.com (USA) 9/16X3-5/8X9-1/2\" ROUND U BOLT KIT x 2 sets

Front brake cylinders - Ebay (usa)
Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Dorman W4571 fits 40-47 Ford 1 Ton Pickup( 281439639223 )

I had time on Sunday to pipe the brakes in. The brake hoses that were on the vehicle, were far too long, infact, the front axle to swivel housing hoses, rubbed on the inside of the wheels. After a bit of research I found a company in Southhampton Hampshire, that had the correct hoses, run by a very helpful chap called Steve.

STAR Automotive
02380849311

Front axle to Swivel housing - NAPA part Number 4900 or his invoice UP4900
Front and rear chassis to axle - NAPA part Number 4960 or his invoice UP4960

I hope that helps.

Johann
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  #13  
Old 28-07-16, 09:18
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Thanks Alex
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  #14  
Old 29-07-16, 08:22
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Body in Brown
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