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#1
13-07-16, 00:02
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The front observation hatch had at some time, been re-made using the original strengthening components and latch but it wasn't very good, so a new one was made again using any original components. The hatch inner and out surrounds were original but all the other associated parts were missing.
When I first started I made the petrol can holder on the passengers side to suit the German 20ltr type cans and then decided that it was wrong so I have altered it and made a new holder for the 1 gallon type containers. Other components completed are, the battery box and lid, rifle clips and but holders, petrol tanks and pretty well any other parts that needed making. There is still a small pile of original components that need stripping and repairing but on the whole everything is there. Apart that is for one thing, the radiator expansion container that is bolted to the front passengers wing. I have never seen one close up and need dimensions, and pictures. How do you gain access inside it? what are the fittings like? infact, any details would be very much appreciated. So the chassis is complete and ready to go into another building while I prepare and spray the body ready for the two to be mated back together. 
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#2
13-07-16, 00:07
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more pictures
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#3
13-07-16, 00:14
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More picture.
Regards, Jonathan
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#4
13-07-16, 00:33
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Hello Pieter,
Everything is home made, the only actual details, measurements that I had were either from Robert Morrison in Canada or from a Vehicle that I photographed. Everything else has been gained by studying photos on the web and believe me I have spent hours doing that. If the rim that you are referring to is the one in the picture, then it is copied from Roberts. Obviously artistic licence has to come into it as I do not have the tooling that they used back then. If you are in the UK feel free to come over. Regards, Jonathan
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#5
14-07-16, 10:47
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Pieter,
If the bearings that you refer to are these, on either side of the hatch, then I turned up them on a lathe. For the shaft I used high tensile 1/4" UNF Counter sunk screws. I can imagine that there will be those who wouldn't agree with using these as the shaft but firstly, one, is not going to be constantly opening and shutting the hatch and secondly it was to help with getting the free play for the bearing right before welding. Also the load is taken on the shaft and on the taper of the head. I taped the receiving arm 1/4" UNF, then put the bearing on the shaft, screwed it in and nipped it up. I then ground the end of the shaft that pertruded out of the receiving arm flush and disassembled it all. Then grind a taper on the end of the shaft for the weld to catch in. Grease and Reassemble it all, adjust the end play so that the bearing isn't too tight or too loose, weld the shaft in place and grind flush. Sorry if that was teaching Granny to suck eggs, but I hope that it helps. Jonathan
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#6
20-07-16, 12:26
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Quote:
Jonathan, Thanks for the explanation I was looking for an answer on that one too however referring to the bearing I meant the red circled item in the picture. I guess that you did not add the locking device which is originally in the handle(?)
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#7
22-07-16, 23:48
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Oh those bearing housings. They are mild steel blocks machined to size, drilled, tapped, drilled, reamed as required and cross drilled and tapped for the grease nipples. Then I machined and ground them to the desired shape. No, the handles do not contain the locking mechanism, as I could not obtain the required information when I made them. However should it become available then it can be added.
Jonathan
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#9
24-07-16, 23:30
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Lovely work Jonathan....and thanks for keeping us updated. Great to see the C8a coming back to life, after loosing it's body so long ago.
regards, Alex
__________________
Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle
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#10
24-07-16, 23:39
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Sorry, I didn't take pictures of that. There is a picture in the workshop manual but I have a new laptop with windows 10 and I am buggered if I can work out how to get the bloody printer to scan. What was wrong with windows 8.
Jonathan
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#11
26-07-16, 15:22
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Quote:
How about the brakecilinders where did you dig those up... also question on the central wheel nut what kind of wrench do you use to fix the nut ? I'm looking for a wrenchcap(?) don't know the English word to fit the 70mm wide nut (its quite big)
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#12
27-07-16, 11:39
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Here you go, if you have problem, I will get the link off ebay. In my opinion the front brake pipe, chassis to axle, could do with being a bit shorter. I couldn't find a socket to fit the large nuts, so I made a very crude one to suit. It works a lot better than a hammer and chisel, which is what had been used in the past by previous mechanics.
All of the parts that I have been waiting for have turned up so I was able to get the rear axle in and the brakes installed. It took quite a lot of searching to find some of the components so I will post where the parts came from. Rear brake cylinders - Ebay (usa) Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder-Professional Grade Front Raybestos WC3406( 161726933472 ) Rear spring u bolts and long nuts - ATS springs www.ATSsprings.com (USA) 9/16X3-5/8X9-1/2\" ROUND U BOLT KIT x 2 sets Front brake cylinders - Ebay (usa) Drum Brake Wheel Cylinder Dorman W4571 fits 40-47 Ford 1 Ton Pickup( 281439639223 ) I had time on Sunday to pipe the brakes in. The brake hoses that were on the vehicle, were far too long, infact, the front axle to swivel housing hoses, rubbed on the inside of the wheels. After a bit of research I found a company in Southhampton Hampshire, that had the correct hoses, run by a very helpful chap called Steve. STAR Automotive 02380849311 Front axle to Swivel housing - NAPA part Number 4900 or his invoice UP4900 Front and rear chassis to axle - NAPA part Number 4960 or his invoice UP4960 I hope that helps. Johann
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