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You are so right David....
...in the mid 60s I had dune buggies ....by the early 70s was dirt bikes .... and by 72 was M 37 and the Outaouais 4x4 Club Sponsored by the Molson Brewery with free beers.... ...and CMPs since 96. ..... it explains why I turned 73 today!!!!!! Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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Well then, you deserve this wish: HAPPY BIRTHDAY BOB!!!!!!
![]() from me, on the warm side (around the corner and down the hill) ![]() (as opposed to over the hill) ![]() 73 and still fighting with 16inch tyres! Well done Bob, I hope you're still doing it in 10 years ![]()
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#3
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Excellent post ..lots of great info here..thank you for sharing. I picked up the esco model bead braker a little while ago and for most jobs it works well..however i initially picked it up to remove some 900-20's from some deuce wheels..i quickly found out that with the offset of the wheel center section there isnt enough rim for the tool to grab except in the hand hold areas on the lock ring side..fortunately not an issue on a CMP wheel.
For lubricating threads on pullers and other high force operations i use straight STP on the threads..its slicker than anti sieze and it doesnt have the tendency to follow you around the shop and into the house and onto the wifes finery the way a tiny amount of anti sieze will ![]() Especially if youre doing bodywork and paint.
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Stab it and steer... |
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....."for the tool to grab except in the hand hold areas on the lock ring side"......
Hi Corey We happen to have 4 deuce and a half rims/tires to work on. Are you saying that the tool must be aligned with the cutouts in the rim centre for the rim clamp tobe able to clamp properly....? And once was done it did slide the tire bead suffuciently to release the bead lock on the rim and free the tire. Thanks Bob C
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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I change a lot of tires I counted over 180 tires in my yard the other day. I was 2 1/2 hrs a tire ,changing 900x16 tires on three CMPs ,I have some good tire tools including a big bead breaker hammer and a 50 ton press .How did the army do it in the battle fields ? Those run flat tires are a night mare . I'll be making one of your tools ,thanks . Another word for tire grease is GUNK
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George is hooked on OD 5 window DT969 8 ton Fruehauf trailer M2A1Halftrack ,CMP #11 F15A1 #13 F15A1 RAF Fordson Tractor, 42 WLC HD No.2MK11 CT267514 center CB24713 bottom hull25701 ,No.2 MK2 parts MK1 10128 ,(2) MK1 ,Parts Hull9305 .Hull 10407 Hull plate # 7250 all have walk plate on back steps 1917 Patent modle amphibious army tank |
#6
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Another easy to find source for the tire grease is good old Crisco. I have been using the same pound of it for about 5 years out in the shop. Gives the mice something to snack on too.
In the military we used to get michelin tire grease in a 5 pound yellow pail. It was good too. |
#7
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Hi George Actually the CMP rims are easy to change with only hand tools, if and it is a big if, the rims need to be smooth and clean NO rust. If the rims are clean and well painted as they would be on a new truck or one under 5 years old then it is relatively easy for one man to break them down change a tube and remount them. There are tricks to making this process easy using just the two tire irons from the tool kit. I like Number 27 as it has more leverage than Number 49. (see tool sheet and list below) What works for me best is take the two of the #27 irons and insert the tip between rim and tire and pry down on the end just leaning on the bar end, then insert the other tool in right next to it and pry down. I keep doing this until have worked my way around the rim twice. As you work around the rim the tip of the spoon on the iron will work in a little deeper. As I'm doing this it is not an effort to push down as hard as I can just leaning on the end of the bar. Generally after the 2nd time around the rim starts to really slide up out of the tire. Then use the #49 bar to finish the process sliding the hooked end in and instead of prying down on the end of the bar instead pry sideways. As I have gotten older and back weaker I've found that having the wheel assembly laying flat about two feet off the ground makes it easier to just lean on the bar end. Once one side of the rim has been pried out this way flip the wheel over and repeat on the other half of the rim. It seems to be more about pushing or prying a little way all the way around rather than prying hard on one spot. Had to pop one of the 11:00x20 of the C60L (off this summer) when I picked up a nail but didn't go flat. Wanted to be sure it had not penetrated all the way. Took me about an hour to remove wheel break it down check the tube reassemble, re-inflate, and remount the tire on the truck. Of course I had shop air for the impact wrench and to inflate the tire. Can you imagine using the foot pump in the tool kit. The ease of doing this of course is all aided by the fact that the rims on my trucks have all been cleaned and painted so I'm not fighting rust or the ruff surface inter face of rusted rim and tire. I've changed the rubber bead spacer run flats with out differently once the rims have been well cleaned and painted. Never have encountered one of the steel bead spacers. Next time I have to break a tire down I'll make a video. Would add safety caution on tire inflation. Use a lock on inflater and a pressure regulator set to the desired pressure (double check the pressure setting) then walk away from the tire while it is inflating. I like being on the other side of the truck or out side the shop. Once had a car tire sidewall fail while reinflating heck of a noise. I've noticed that once a tire has been mounted on a rim it generally will seat the next time without a lot of effort. Cheers Phil Scan 12.jpg Scan 10.jpg Scan 11.jpg Scan 9.jpg
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com Last edited by Phil Waterman; 27-01-16 at 15:54. Reason: Add a thought added clarification |
#8
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057850 CAIRNS, QLD. 1943-08-26. MECHANIC JOYCE NIXON OF THE WOMEN'S NATIONAL EMERGENCY LEGION W.jpg 065579 INGLEBURN, NSW. 1944-04-04. AUSTRALIAN WOMEN'S ARMY SERVICE STUDENTS OF THE 2ND MOTOR TR.jpg 060917 MELBOURNE, VIC. 1943-12-06. AWAS MECHANICS REPAIRING TYRES ON LHQ SIGNALS MOTOR VEHICLES.jpg 008568 1941-08. WITH THE FIELD AMBULANCE NURSING YEOMANRY. DRIVERS OF THE AUXILIARY TERRITORIAL.jpg P02151.004 Rockhampton, QLD. c.1941-10. Women's National Emergency Legion (WNEL) putting chains.jpg
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters. |
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Evidently with great difficulty, by various methods, with varying degrees of success.
Aussie methods: 027990 ALICE SPRINGS, AUSTRALIA. 1942-12-08. MEMBERS OF THE 149TH AUSTRALIAN GENERAL TRANSPORT .jpg 027991 ALICE SPRINGS, AUSTRALIA. 1942-12-08. MEMBERS OF THE 149TH AUSTRALIAN GENERAL TRANSPORT .jpg 097982 097981 WEWAK AREA, NEW GUINEA. 1945-10-13. MEMBERS OF 3 MOBILE TYRE WORKSHOP SECTION RE.jpg 097981 WEWAK AREA, NEW GUINEA. 1945-10-13. MEMBERS OF 3 MOBILE TYRE WORKSHOP SECTION REMOVING A.jpg Kiwi method (presumably the guy with the beer is supervising): mp.natlib.govt.nz 99 changing tyre split rim.jpg
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One of the original Australian CMP hunters. |
#10
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Tony, This is just a local pattern damper in the tow rope.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#11
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![]() Quote:
![]() bead breaker ![]() ![]() ![]() cut a hole with a chain saw then used a cold chisel to break the bead literally ![]() ![]() even after getting one half off they still put up a fight... ![]() I think I was 16 at the time but not sure I'd do it too differently now... |
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