How To: Installing 9:00-16 tires on CMP wheels

[George McKenzie]

I change a lot of tires I counted over 180 tires in my yard the other day. I was 2 1/2 hrs a tire ,changing 900x16 tires on three CMPs ,I have some good tire tools including a big bead breaker hammer and a 50 ton press .How did the army do it in the battle fields ? Those run flat tires are a night mare . I'll be making one of your tools ,thanks . Another word for tire grease is GUNK

[rob love]

Another easy to find source for the tire grease is good old Crisco. I have been using the same pound of it for about 5 years out in the shop. Gives the mice something to snack on too.

In the military we used to get michelin tire grease in a 5 pound yellow pail. It was good too.

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by George McKenzie

.....How did the army do it in the battle fields ? Those run flat tires are a night mare . I'll be making one of your tools ,thanks . ....

Hi George

Actually the CMP rims are easy to change with only hand tools, if and it is a big if, the rims need to be smooth and clean NO rust.

If the rims are clean and well painted as they would be on a new truck or one under 5 years old then it is relatively easy for one man to break them down change a tube and remount them. There are tricks to making this process easy using just the two tire irons from the tool kit. I like Number 27 as it has more leverage than Number 49. (see tool sheet and list below)

What works for me best is take the two of the #27 irons and insert the tip between rim and tire and pry down on the end just leaning on the bar end, then insert the other tool in right next to it and pry down. I keep doing this until have worked my way around the rim twice. As you work around the rim the tip of the spoon on the iron will work in a little deeper. As I'm doing this it is not an effort to push down as hard as I can just leaning on the end of the bar.

Generally after the 2nd time around the rim starts to really slide up out of the tire. Then use the #49 bar to finish the process sliding the hooked end in and instead of prying down on the end of the bar instead pry sideways.

As I have gotten older and back weaker I've found that having the wheel assembly laying flat about two feet off the ground makes it easier to just lean on the bar end. Once one side of the rim has been pried out this way flip the wheel over and repeat on the other half of the rim.

It seems to be more about pushing or prying a little way all the way around rather than prying hard on one spot.

Had to pop one of the 11:00x20 of the C60L (off this summer) when I picked up a nail but didn't go flat. Wanted to be sure it had not penetrated all the way. Took me about an hour to remove wheel break it down check the tube reassemble, re-inflate, and remount the tire on the truck. Of course I had shop air for the impact wrench and to inflate the tire. Can you imagine using the foot pump in the tool kit.

The ease of doing this of course is all aided by the fact that the rims on my trucks have all been cleaned and painted so I'm not fighting rust or the ruff surface inter face of rusted rim and tire.

I've changed the rubber bead spacer run flats with out differently once the rims have been well cleaned and painted. Never have encountered one of the steel bead spacers.

Next time I have to break a tire down I'll make a video.

Would add safety caution on tire inflation. Use a lock on inflater and a pressure regulator set to the desired pressure (double check the pressure setting) then walk away from the tire while it is inflating. I like being on the other side of the truck or out side the shop. Once had a car tire sidewall fail while reinflating heck of a noise.

I've noticed that once a tire has been mounted on a rim it generally will seat the next time without a lot of effort.

Cheers Phil

Scan 12.jpg Scan 10.jpg
Scan 11.jpg Scan 9.jpg

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by George McKenzie

I change a lot of tires I counted over 180 tires in my yard the other day. I was 2 1/2 hrs a tire...Those run flat tires are a night mare .... Another word for tire grease is GUNK

Changing tyres can certainly be tedious dirty work. Of course, in wartime you can delegate:


057850 CAIRNS, QLD. 1943-08-26. MECHANIC JOYCE NIXON OF THE WOMEN'S NATIONAL EMERGENCY LEGION W.jpg 065579 INGLEBURN, NSW. 1944-04-04. AUSTRALIAN WOMEN'S ARMY SERVICE STUDENTS OF THE 2ND MOTOR TR.jpg 060917 MELBOURNE, VIC. 1943-12-06. AWAS MECHANICS REPAIRING TYRES ON LHQ SIGNALS MOTOR VEHICLES.jpg 008568 1941-08. WITH THE FIELD AMBULANCE NURSING YEOMANRY. DRIVERS OF THE AUXILIARY TERRITORIAL.jpg P02151.004 Rockhampton, QLD. c.1941-10. Women's National Emergency Legion (WNEL) putting chains.jpg

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by George McKenzie

How did the army do it in the battle fields ?

Evidently with great difficulty, by various methods, with varying degrees of success.

Aussie methods:

027990 ALICE SPRINGS, AUSTRALIA. 1942-12-08. MEMBERS OF THE 149TH AUSTRALIAN GENERAL TRANSPORT .jpg 027991 ALICE SPRINGS, AUSTRALIA. 1942-12-08. MEMBERS OF THE 149TH AUSTRALIAN GENERAL TRANSPORT .jpg 097982 097981 WEWAK AREA, NEW GUINEA. 1945-10-13. MEMBERS OF 3 MOBILE TYRE WORKSHOP SECTION RE.jpg 097981 WEWAK AREA, NEW GUINEA. 1945-10-13. MEMBERS OF 3 MOBILE TYRE WORKSHOP SECTION REMOVING A.jpg

Kiwi method (presumably the guy with the beer is supervising):

mp.natlib.govt.nz 99 changing tyre split rim.jpg

[Lynn Eades]

Tony, This is just a local pattern damper in the tow rope.

[harrygrey382]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Kiwi method (presumably the guy with the beer is supervising):

similar to my method...



bead breaker





cut a hole with a chain saw then used a cold chisel to break the bead literally





even after getting one half off they still put up a fight...



I think I was 16 at the time but not sure I'd do it too differently now...

[Bob Carriere]

I agree with you Harry...... sometimes the chainsaw and cold chisel is the ONLY way to break the rust weld bond....... actually pulling them apart with chains probably makes it worst has you are trying to roll the very stiff rusted tire bead on itself.

Caution is always required!!!! count your fingers before and after.

Cheers

Bob C

[harrygrey382]

and there I was thinking it was me and my uncle that came up with that method! They sure can have a tight hold... I think you do need a combo though to get proper access to the bead while the rims are pulled apart a bit

[George McKenzie]

I use to let the air mostly out and then drive in a circle and that would sure make it easier to get them off

[Bob Phillips]

I had the tires removed from my 16 inch CMP rims today.Despite using extreme measures ( backhoe, torches etc) in the past and a generous offer from a fellow enthusiast to use his 50 ton press to push off the tires,I used a different method.
A friend of a mobile tractor mechanic and tire repair guy. He used a one inch air ratchet gun on the nuts and a heavy duty hydraulic bead breaker on the tires. Had all four off in about 1.5 - 2 hours. Cost $100 what a deal!!
Will sandblast and then maybe turn them to clean smooth metal before painting.