Chev 216 loose piston pin - which one ?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Mike

As you mentioned

"I have seen the pump kit for the 235 conversion, I think the 235 engine is slightly longer than a 216 and the fan can be too close to the radiator in some vehicles "

yes this is why I had to remove and press on a different pulley.

My experience doing the conversion on the 261 and 235 was that the block is not longer it is the extra 1/4" of the adapter plate plus the positioning of the and shape of pulley on the later 216 water pumps. The new or rebuilt water pumps that I was using all had the the narrow style pulley that I removed and replaced with the old style pulley flange and pulley.

As to the domed piston, ran into this when I rebuilt the engine on my HUP a few years ago, needed a new head because mine had some cracks developing, they had not leaked yet. The only NOS head I could get was for the flat topped pistons which meant I had to change pistons, not a problem as the cylinders were being bored which the pistons had to be changed. Pictures of the piston and head http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/H...May%20Work.htm

Be careful of how you remove or drive on the crank pulley real easy to deform the hand crank boss. Made a tool that fit in the center hole and put the driving force across through the hand crank slots this way when pulley is driven on it doesn't damage the boss.

Crank Pulley Tool.jpg

Cheers Phil

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi Mike

As you mentioned "I have seen the pump kit for the 235 conversion, I think the 235 engine is slightly longer than a 216 and the fan can be too close to the radiator in some vehicles " yes this is why I had to remove and press on a different pulley.

My experience doing the conversion on the 261 and 235 was that the block is not longer it is the extra 1/4" of the adapter plate plus the positioning of the and shape of pulley on the later 216 water pumps. The new or rebuilt water pumps that I was using all had the the narrow style pulley that I removed and replaced with the old style pulley flange and pulley.

As to the domed piston, ran into this when I rebuilt the engine on my HUP a few years ago, needed a new head because mine had some cracks developing, they had not leaked yet. The only NOS head I could get was for the flat topped pistons which meant I had to change pistons, not a problem as the cylinders were being bored which the pistons had to be changed. Pictures of the piston and head http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/H...May%20Work.htm

Be careful of how you remove or drive on the crank pulley real easy to deform the hand crank boss. Made a tool that fit in the center hole and put the driving force across through the hand crank slots this way when pulley is driven on it doesn't damage the boss.

Attachment 73975

Cheers Phil

Ok Interesting

What type of carby do you run on your 216's ?

I have a Rochester model B on the C8 . It has been very good and trouble free but I just noticed it has been running rich , the plugs are black with carbon . I use the original oil bath air cleaner .

A lot of people here with old Chevys, use Holden Stromberg carbies with an adjustable main jet .

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Mike

All three of my 216 engines still have their original carbs all are Carter W-1 but they are not identical there were changes during the years of production. Carb at left is out of the 41 Pattern 12 one at right is the 1945 HUP carb.

Web Carb early and late W-1.jpg

Yes, I have noted that all of the engines seem to run richer, than when I first started driving them years ago. Do not know if this is the carbs or if it is that the gasoline has change a lot in the US.

The HUP with 216 has original oil bath, C60L with 235 has a 235 oil bath (throat is bigger) the C60S with the 261 has a modern paper filter could not find an oil bath that would fit the carb or the space.

The Carter W-1 on the HUP has been trouble free in 37 years of driving except for one time when I got a half a tank of water at a gas station. Ended up fixing the truck on the side of the road, drain the filter, remove the fuel bowel on the fuel pump, took the top of the carb and empty the water out . Fortunately I had only filled one tank at that station so was able to switch over to the other tank, then with the fuel line disconnected from the carb pumped the hand primer on the fuel pump until the lines were clear and gas going into the collection can was clear.

Because of the ethanol in the US gas I have discontinued using the mechanical fuel pumps on two of the trucks and replaced them with 6 volt electrics. On the HUP the original fuel pump is still in place and the fuel goes through it but it has a metal plate where the pump diaphragm would be used galvanized steel so it should not rust.


The two bigger trucks with the 261 and 235 engine have the correct carbs for the truck engine, got lucky and found the pair on e-bay NOS for under $50 US. Both were missing the same little check valve which is why they were still in the box as NOS because they didn't work correctly robbed the check valve from two non-functioning old carbs and they run great. Both are Rochester Carbs.

Web 261 235 216 Carbs.jpg

When I swapped engines on the 3 Tons I kept the original engines as complete units on engine stands, ready to reinstall should the need ever arise. Only thing missing fans and generators which moved over to the newer engines.

Cheers Phil

[Mike K]

The Rochester manual

http://www.newagemetal.com/pages/Ser...delBmanual.pdf

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Mike

Thanks for posting the link will print out copy put in my shop manual binder. The part that was missing in the two carbs I bought was the little ball part # 30 or 41. Only found that it was missing by matching every part with an exploded parts like the one in the manual you posted. In that case the poor parts and adjustment sheet that came with a carb rebuild kit.

Lesson I learned from that experience was if a carb doesn't work right and may have been disassembled, like " NOS " carb is make sure all the little bits are actually in correct place.

Again thanks

Cheers Phil

[Mike K]

The two hole 216 pump is identical to the single hole CMP pump...... apart from the backing plate. Is this correct ?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Chevrolet...item4196e9e3fd

Mike

[motto]

No Mike, the one and two hole pumps are quite different. I think that the only components they have in common are the moving parts. The bolt patterns are not the same and the angle of the inlet stub is also different. Put the two pumps side by side and it is immediately obvious.
The one hole pump is the same as on the GMC 270 CCKW engine but for the pulley.

Dave

[Jordan Baker]

Mike, back on the first page of your post you had some great pictures of rebuilding your water pump. You replaced the original seals with a modern mechanical seal. I'm just wondering how it all turned out once it had been in use?

Is this the type of seal you used?

https://www.grainger.com/product/PAC...aft-Seal-1R318

Thanks.

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

Mike, back on the first page of your post you had some great pictures of rebuilding your water pump. You replaced the original seals with a modern mechanical seal. I'm just wondering how it all turned out once it had been in use?

Is this the type of seal you used?

https://www.grainger.com/product/PAC...aft-Seal-1R318

Thanks.

Hi Jordan

I have been running the engine regularly, mainly in order to keep it all from gunking up, the modern fuel is crap and it clogs evreything up if you leave it .

The water pump mod has been great , no leaks in over 2 years. Yes those mechanical seals are easy to buy. I used the 5/8" one from memory.

[Jordan Baker]

I picked up a couple of the 5/8" mechanical seals. Is the ceramic part supposed to be a loose fit on the shaft? I got 5/8" but it seems loose to me. What did you make the adapter out of to fit the ceramic part into the impeller?

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

I picked up a couple of the 5/8" mechanical seals. Is the ceramic part supposed to be a loose fit on the shaft? I got 5/8" but it seems loose to me. What did you make the adapter out of to fit the ceramic part into the impeller?

It was a while ago. I think I machined up a sleeve out of stainless steel for the ceramic half to have a snug fit into the impeller . The ceramic half will stay put in the impeller ( not spin ) because it is held in place under tension from the spring and the neoprene surround sleeve will help it to grip . Yes the ceramic ring is a loose fit on the shaft . Look at my post with the pics.