A little light entertainment: 1939 Ford 1 ton Utility restoration

[jack neville]

These photos show the remains of the timber work which needed replacing. It would have been impossible to copy from these remains if I had not done the same job on my Marmon Herrington Gun Tractor a few years ago.

[hrpearce]

I takes me hat of to ya

[jack neville]

i
I bought one of these cheap spot welders from ebay. Wish I had bought one years ago. Very handy for jobs like this. Welding replacement weather seal retainer strips to the bottom of the door frame.

[jack neville]

After completing the bulk of the cab I gave it a coat of Fishoil and let it dry out for a month. Then a coat of red oxide primer. The timber framework was primed and glued and screwed and fitted to the rear of the cab. I stripped the side panels and patched the bottom rusty sections using the spot welder. These panels were then welded back in place and the rear ends nailed to the timber work. Once the side panels are in place the inside cover panels at the top of the sides are then welded together over the timber. This means that you need a spray bottle to stop the timber catching fire as you weld it. I know it sounds weird, welding sheet metal over timber. As I said earlier, these roadster cabs are a unique Australian pattern and appear to be a blend of the modern (40's modern) sheet metal work with the old coach building skills, even though the cabs were built in the Geelong Ford factory during the early war years. The weirdest bit is yet to come.

[jack neville]

The rear panel fits around the timber frame and is nailed across the top and across the bottom. The sides are attached to the frame by sliding up over a 25mm strip of metal that is nailed along the side timbers. To make this panel, the top section is prefolded over wit a 20mm edge. The bottom areas are similarly folded over to fit the bottom timbers. A 12mm edge is folded over on the curved sides. Once the side strip is nailed in place the whole panel is simply slipped up from the bottom, with the sides engaging the metal strip and locking the sides into place. The fact that the top edge is already folded over means it gets really tight when almost all the way in place. I greased the sides to assist in putting the panel into place. There are not too many of these vehicles that have been restored and I wonder has anyone had to make and fit a rear panel like this since the early1940's when these vehicles were last produced. And I wonder why the hell did they not just screw the bloody thing on. Oh and once in place and the top and bottom nails are put in, guess what. You weld the top corners to the side panels!!!! Then you lead wipe the corner joins for a nice finish!!!

[gordon]

I'd think Henry would be having Kittens at the man hours and processes for that

[Ian Mastin]

G'day Jack,

Looking great mate keep up the great work ? are you going to try your hand at lead filling and wipeing.



Cheers
Ian

[jack neville]

After alot of work the cab is finally back together and I mounted it back on the chassis today. Added the dash panel and windscreen wind out. Chassis is now largely complete to a rolling stage.

[jack neville]

I will concentrate on completing the front sheet metal and finishing the front half of the vehicle so next will be the guards and doors. Once that is done this is what I have to tackle.

[jack neville]

A few more.

[Keith Webb]

Looks challenging but at least you have that much of it. Really enjoying the updates!

[jack neville]

This rear body is from a civvy model and has had a side spare wheel mount added, which is a home made job. The spare on a 39 was mounted under the chassis. The front of the Aussie roadster utes had a modification to the rear body to fit the squared off cabin. You can see in the photo below that the civvy body had the curved contour to follow the rounded civvy cab. I will have to cut this back. This body is missing the rear panel and typical of Australian farmers repairs has been fitted with a heavy piece of wood and over engineered heavy steel to reinforce the corners at the rear. This is typical of vehicles with timber framework that can not survive the elements and abuse and start to loosen up and fall to bits. There is virtually nothing left of the timber work in this body and not too many clues as to what is should be like. Studying the remaining bolts can give a few clues as to thickness of timber and layout. This body also has an inner lining that the army models did not have. It looks a little amatuerish so may have been a after factory addition I think.

[Tony Wheeler]

Any progress lately Jack? I thought of you yesterday when I found this one in Daylesford in a similar state to yours. Interesting to see original camo and the remains of a unit sign visible.

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TONY7722 - Copy.jpg

[jack neville]

Looks salvageable Tony. Did you buy it? Progress has stalled of late but picked up again yesterday. Finally got some parts I was waiting ages on and put the firewall padding and trim in. Floor will go in this weekend. It won't make Corowa this year. I actually spent time fixing a couple of BSA airborne bicycles up to have at Corowa. (I've fallen for the local adage re Corowa- 'anyone can have a jeep or a truck but only the cool guys have bikes'). Just had to get one for Jake and I.

On the ute front, the 41 ford I was trying to sell for a mate on eBay has now returned to me for restoration. As a result I need some more side panels made for that one as well so I've sent a sample of the triple rib pressing to Colin Jones for him to study and see how successful a die can be assembled to make fresh panels. The rear bodies are quite a complex process to reassemble correctly.

[jack neville]

What the cool guys will be riding

[Jan Thompson]

Now you don't want my dad's bicycle.