Try changing the capacitor in the distributor, a bad capacitor will allow the engine to start but will break down at higher RPM which can result in rough running.
Roberta
AKA
universalgrl
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere
Resourcefulness and not knowing it can't be done are basic skills for working on a CMP.....
Phil
You could write a book on "how to...for CMPs" .... and maybe you should....
That modification to the crankshaft pulley is genius and surely related to the old index wheels we used on V* for setting valve cycles accurately..... using a boxful of various offset keys...once marked every 120 degrees you are set for life....
I still think that using the inspection hatch on the bell housing for timing is worth it's weight in gold.....
Now .... to the stale gas.....
It seems to go bad faster than a few decades ago..... however the old gas form the 70s use to stink like hell.... new gas goes bad but you cannot readily detect the changes by smell alone.... I remember coming home
after sucking gas from old cars in junk yards.... we used it to wash parts.... inevitably you always swallowed some..... my wife was always quick to point out my stinking breadth..... we stopped that practice after reading in a safety manual that only one drop in your lungs....once spread over the wet tissue like an oil slick... can suffocate you..... so now we suck beers....
It may be that Rob's gas had gone bad.... because his (marine mobile )tank stayed connected to his truck and when he went in the tent it had heated up and poured out when pressurised by sunshine...... it mayhave vented the best volatile components of the gasoline....
The other suspected thing is the dizzy was bumped and moved..... he did have two sparkplug wires knwoed off the dizzy,,,, and yes we checked the firing order... too young...too old..... just right..... perverts !!!!
Vacuum seemed to be working when last checked.
Next detective work willbe a systematic elemination process finishing with the timing......
On the electric fuel pump.... it has been a lively topic on Stove Bolt Chev site..... a lot of guys have been having problems with deteriorating gas line and in particular the fuel oumo diaphram..... some are advocating srtipping the pumping mechanism of the original fuel pump..... replace diaphram with a strong neoprene gasket.... removing the one way valve and using a hidden electric fuel pump to flow gasoline through the dummy pump to the carb.... it retains originality of the pump but is more dependable.
I fully intend to install a permanent electric fuel pump on my cab 11 either in series with the mechanical pump or as a stand alone bypass system in case of unforeseen problems.....
Please keep us informed of any other short cut you come up with while re-doing the HUP.
Bob
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26-09-11, 06:22
Rough running engine
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