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#1
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axles waiting restoration
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#2
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Paul..
That is a nice weld..low splatter..looks like 7018 or 7011.. 7011 would give you a nice base for a deep large weld but not with a frame..but not strong enough for a stand alone,one pass fix,in my estimation..especially for a restoration.... the 7018 is your best choice for price and strength.....70 series means 70,000 pounds tensile strength..more than enough for your frame..if it was a military application I would use 8018 or even 9018 for a 90,000 pound tensile strength weld..the frame would break somewhere else..not the welded area.. Anyway ..by the look of your weld..you don't need any advice from me but it may help others that are doing some welding with out your experience that may have some questions that we could help with..Keep posting..love the pictures and the description.. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
#3
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thank for the flower's!!
actually i used the mig welder at a high voltage and slower wire speed to make sure i had good penetration, also since those frame are high in carbon i preheated to a cherry red before welding and kept it hot for a while before leting it cool down on its own slowly to prevent any stress in the steel, it is important not to over heat it as it can become brittle because of the carbon , the mig welder combined with the mix gold gas and some nozzle dip make for very clean welds, i also used the plasma quite a bit to remove some material to cut down on grinding time. as for progress pics , the more nice wheater the more progress , i do need to build a garage..lol |
#4
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oh and for everyone, only the fool dont take or listen to advice!!!!, i love to hear advice from any one as long as it is polite, i try to always remember that some people always have more knowledge than me on some subject and that tthere is always something to learn form one and other
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#5
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I figured you for an old school stick welder..I was curious about the few splatter beads..as 7018 doesn't do that /..I thought mig at first and then picked the wrong door.. The fresh drill hole at the end of the crack before welding told me you were an old school guy that knew what you were doing... Pre heating was definitely the right process..cast iron is done the same way.. Anyway ..maybe you can make a trip in JUNE up to the Ottawa area to BBB...Bob's Beer and BBQ..mentioned here on the forum.. great time and lots of fun..maybe scrounge up some parts and pieces.too..Once again..great job..keep the picture log going.. we all want to follow your project..
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
#6
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hehe i do take care of keeping 4 plow bucket together in the winter , it does involve a lot a welding with the old stick welder , uspside down over head going up and down and in all kind of hole, lol , the drilled hole is one of the simplest way to stop a crack from going further after you fix it if it fails again , wich happen all the time on the buckets, (the drivers keep hitting curbs and all sorts of stuff), recently bougth the mig and a plasma cutter, so the new cool tool are pretty good too , the mig apear to easy, you have too watch a lot for good penetration as it can be easy to do a good looking weld with no penetration, i find slowing the wire down bring up the heat,
as for ottawa , you never know , my girlfriend migth be off and we migth take a trip , i rarely plan ahead, i like to live day by day, i am retired after all...lol |
#7
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same old today boring stuff, used some chemical aircraft paint stripper to remove the old paint from the frame in order to cut dow on sanding , lot of scraping nothing to take picture of, sarted taking the rear axle appart and destroyed the pinion bearing trying to save the oil seal, darn it , there was a nut holding he bearing in, lol oh well live and learn , will post pic when interesting stuff stats happening
paul |
#8
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well today the frame of the truck got the finish sand blast and sanding and a coat of etching primer, i am happy, restoration is starting since i got the first coat of paint on its foundation, yeaah baby, anyhow here are the pics
enjoy frame all shiny and ready for paint!!! ![]() first end painted in redneck paint boot, it keep the overspray down so the neigbors dont complain.lol... ![]() an other part in the redneck paint boot ![]() all etched and primed, black coat going on tomorow!!! ![]() now my back is killing me!!! |
#9
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Just down the street from you in Burton,NB is one of the most obnox.....er.....talented,knowledgeable .. CMP mechanics and Diamond "T" guys that ever existed.. His name is BILL MULHOLLAND..from Burton NB.. Bill was working on these trucks in the Army for so long he has probably forgotten more about them than most of us will ever know..You would be more than welcome,I'm sure to contact Bill by Private message through MLU forum..or he may jump in here on this thread and start chatting ..so either way if you were heading to Moncton or beyond ..stop in and see Bill. He has been up to our gather up's in Ottawa many times and hopefully comes with his wife Donna in June.. Hope to see you in June.. (The work on the truck is great..got to do a bunch of welding on my iron railing out front..thanks to some skilled destruction by my better 3/4 ters this winter..probably use the mig but may stick weld it with 7018..smooth..) ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
#10
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nice i would certainely like to speak with him, when i get to the marking , then again i am debating painting the under carriage black instead of green to save a few penny since the truck will be used offroad
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