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#1
09-12-09, 23:26
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Hell, anyone with the skills of the Hammond Crew could make you one in half an hour! I used to do stuff like that in the old days when I had access to machine tools, but they're way better than I ever was... why don't you talk nice to them and see where that leaves you?
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SUNRAY SENDS AND ENDS :remember :support 
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#2
05-01-10, 04:18
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With the move to NB came some heated garage space and more spare time. So after getting settled in the fun begins......
The full restoration teardown has started. Its actually a bit more bare as of this afternoon. Only the front and rear suspension remain now to be pulled tomorrow. It is a real testament to the quality of metals used back in the day. Not only is there very little rust, but all of the bolts came out cleanly with nothing more than a simple wrench and ratchet set. No need to break out the Pipe and Cheater Bar. Gotta love it when the previous owner used the garage as a home gym and put nice paint and blinds in      After alot of thought on sandblasting versus wirebrushing (on the grinder), i'm starting to lean towards wirebrushing. I tried the Heatgun and Scraper, but found it to be too time consuming. Rob Love, you were right, it does have 3 Color Cam under my Canadian Tire Cam. Wire brushing exposed some nice very clearly IRR OD next to IRR Flat Green..... So, back on topic, I'm assuming that if it is sandblasted, even though its stored in a heated garage (with the wifes dripping wet car), i'd imagine its going to need to be primed right away to avoid flash rusting. Since I can't actually do all of the body repairs right after the sandblasting, i'd end up having to re-expose a bunch of trouble spots. I'm liking the approach of just doing one panel at a time; strip, repair, light coat of rattlecan primer, then move on. Then when its completely finished, taking it in for a base coat. Is Rattle Can primer going to be sufficient? Any suggestions on preferred brands? Another thing i've been tossing around was building a Body Tub Rotissery. I can't find a way to build one without diverting a bunch of funds away from the project for metal and will most likely not require it after the restoration. Is there any harm in just setting the bare body on its side and properly brace it, turning it as required? Thanks Scotty Last edited by Scott Bentley; 05-01-10 at 04:25.
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#3
05-01-10, 05:15
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m151a2
hi scotty.i dont have a rotisserey either.i have 2 gpws on their ends right now.when i get my jeeps blasted i get them to shoot a coat of primer right away.regards jim.
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,3-m38,1-m38a1,1-,2-mb,2-cj2a.mbt,m100.
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#4
05-01-10, 17:55
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Mutt resto
Hey Scotty:
How are things? I see you've settled back in NB.....that Mutt we dragged away from your place in Trenton last year is now mercifully gone from my yard....especially merciful after seeing the look on my wife's face last winter when we pulled in with it! If you're not going to blast, and are going to wire-wheel section by section, then you should consider using the DuPont rattle can epoxy primer--get it at NAPA, about 16 bucks a can but very good primer. However, I just recently did a jeep from the frame up for a friend and blasted the frame and body all at once and did the whole epoxy primer thing through my spray gun---the yellow DuPont is best, but expensive. Bout a 100 smackers a half gallon, and then should be sanded, but bullet proof. HTH Scotty. Don
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Don Dingwall 'Strange women lying in ponds distributing swords is no basis for a system of government.'
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#5
05-01-10, 22:06
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Here it sits now... Completely stripped minus the rear Differential and rear portion of the Wiring Harness. Only one broken bolt on the whole thing, the mirror pivot bolt of all things. Between my Engine Crane and a few strapping buddies, I think it will be easy to just turn the carcass as required to get at the bottom. Your right Jim, a rotiserrie would be overkill. As it is now, I can lift up the front end myself.
  I'm going to go at it section by section. Because i'm doing this all in my attached garage, i'm thinking about building a 2"x4" wood frame around it and close it in with Poly. Should keep the nasty dust contained. I suppose if the Ziebart in the nooks and crannys underneath proves a bitch to remove, I can use a small Pressure Pot Blaster. Thanks for the tip on the Primer Don. I'll check it out at the local Napa. Sounds like it would be perfect for this. We hauled that MUTT down to the Swords last spring. I ended up yanking a few more parts from it, but the tub and suspension is still there. Scotty
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#6
06-01-10, 04:42
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Another M151 being restored
HMVF - Historic Military Vehicles Forum
http://www.hmvf.co.uk/forumvb/showthread.php?t=16221
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#7
06-01-10, 14:56
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Quote:
I'll keep my eyes on that post. Scotty
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