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#1
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Hi, I own a 1940 Morris CDFW and I need to sort the big ends.The engine is a Morris EA 4 Cyl the same as a C4. Does anyone have an engine rebuild manual I could copy or scan please?
Rgds Tobin Jones |
#2
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Hi
As far as I know, MCC didn't print a specific manual for that vehicle , rather, they published a generic book that covered all of the military models in 1940. I do have a photocopy of it that Rory did for me years ago. I suggest you contact Rory Ballard in Hampshire for help. I believe they are poured bearings and they are very expensive to have them rebuilt by a specialist . Also Rolf from Norway who used to post here , had quite a lot of NOS parts for those motors. Don't know what became of the parts or him ![]() Mike
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#3
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Hi Tobin,
Mike's correct, the big end bearings are cast into the con-rods. If you strip the con-rods you might find a shim between the rod and the cap and removing this might help if they aren't too badly worn. Otherwise it's a 1930s-style re-metal job. The Morris book that Mike refers to is called "Repair Aids for Service Vehicles" and it's not much use other than for dimensions. It doesn't say anything about big ends. I can let you have a copy of parts of the C8 and C9 workshop manual which has a bit more information on big end work if you PM me an email address. I suppose it might just be possible to machine the rods to take modern shell bearings. We've had quite a lot of spares from Rolf but he told me that he's sold everything now. He didn't have any con-rods but I think he listed some of the main bearings. |
#4
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Hi Ivor, Thanks for that. I have the manuals for the CDSW, CDFW, Portee and the C8 and parts books. I was hoping for some tolerances from somewhere but I guess thats not to be! I had tried contacting Rolf as many of the part numbers were bits that Rolf had but listed as being for C4. I have whipped the rad out and will have that re cored first as it was "less clear" than I had thought and I will fit a six blade fan in place of the current 4 blade which should aid the cooling. The engine only sounded rough when it was hot and failing all else I will drop the bottom and have a look at the big ends. The spare EA engine came from Rory and it does not look too bad at all although I need to gauge the big ends as well to be sure and clean it right through as it has never run on detergent additive oils. Lastly, on the CDFW I knew the exhaust was a bit rudimentary but there is an obvious leak from the manifold/pipe flange joint so I will get a new exhaust made up as well before doig some more road running and testing. Aart from the the FW is running brilliantly!! Nest the Electric Gun brakes on the Portee and then the new wheels and tyres to fit on the CDSW. Morris Central! Pic of the FW below.
Many thanks everyone Tobin PS Yes please to the copy of the repair aid!! |
#5
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Hi Tobin. Before you go tearing things apart, it'd be a good idea to carefully check the ignition timing to make sure it's not too far advanced, as this could cause the knocking and the overheating. Have you checked the oil pressure with a master gauge?
Rhett. |
#6
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Hi Rhett,
Thanks for this. The timing seems to be OK and I think I just need to put some miles on it now. Oil pressure is good (70psi cold and 45 warm - with check gauge) one tappet is out but I think a few miles with proper cooling to just bed everything in. Cheers Tobin |
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