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#1
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We have a customer, Jan Stacey who had his C8 towed in for a tune-up and brakes. It is an older restoration and hasn't ran in years. Jan and his son in law tried to get it running but were unsuccessful. As it turns out it was a futile endeavor. Bob brought it in the garage and started to check it out. A compression test showed the readings all over the map and a bore scope revealed rusty cylinders. Jerk the engine and tear it down. This 235 was original inside which is a real bonus, but with stuck valves, pitted cylinders and worn out camshaft it needs a rebuild.
Barry
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Every twenty minute job is one broken bolt away from a three day ordeal. |
#2
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Like any other mechanical project there are lots of hidden problems. The engine removal process revealed a few defects such as the long gone ear on the transmission and the rotten rad brace. Notice the custom flex pipe exhaust.
Barry
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Every twenty minute job is one broken bolt away from a three day ordeal. Last edited by Barry Churcher; 29-05-11 at 16:42. Reason: Addition |
#3
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We moved on to a brake inspection and found the expected problems. The steel lines are rotten, flex hoses cracked, the wheel cylinders seized but repairable and the master cylinder is scrap. One wheel cylinder had previously been sleeved which is good. We figured since it needs all this stuff and in the interest of safety, we might be further ahead to install a dual master cylinder. Bob chopped the old bracket off the frame and fabbed up this replacement.
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Every twenty minute job is one broken bolt away from a three day ordeal. |
#4
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Will you be telling us which MC you will be using.... make, year. ect.
What is that spool device under the hood..... looks like a retractable trouble light...... would it be original...? Bob
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#5
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Having done all this before, the owner will find out about chev engine rebuild and the phrase "oh...it's babbited.....we forgot that. That's another $350.00."
And you will have to hunt down a tranny case and send the pair out for rebuild, then reinstall (maybe a new clutch.) Might as well put in new cylinders and a Master on the brakes as well as lines. That rad surround will be a tough find. I forsee a $4500 bill, with most going to perry Automotive for the engine. Peter Simundson. |
#6
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Hi Bob
Yes, we can supply numbers etc for the parts. If you had a better view of that thing under the hood you would see what it was. A clue is if you put power to it it goes "beep". Peter, sounds like you know whereof you speak. The engine was really expensive to overhaul. Jim at the machine shop phoned with the estimate and since he and I are both old guys, neither one of us could believe the price. ![]() We reminisced about the old days when he did 6 cyl. Chevy rebuilds for me for $300.00. Cheers, Barry
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Every twenty minute job is one broken bolt away from a three day ordeal. |
#7
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Hi Barry
Funny flat looking "beeper"...... certainly not original..... Is it possible to post the MC data for local purchase..... and are you using a split system......?? Bob C
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#8
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This week Bob had a chance to crawl into the engine compartment with his little thin wire and make patterns for the brake lines. He then transfers the pattern to straight pieces of brake line to make the bends. We use straight line as opposed to the roll because it does a nicer job. Using the line from the roll is marginally cheaper but it never straightens out as neat. We cleaned the line with Scotch pads and applied some stainless paint. The line without some kind of coating will rust fairly quickly. These will rust anyway but will last a while. The current available line is so crappy it doesn't last long. I noticed in Holland they have a copper coated steel line which would be prima.
Cheers, Barry
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Every twenty minute job is one broken bolt away from a three day ordeal. |
#9
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In UK we use a copper nickel alloy brake pipe called Cunifer http://www.cunifer.com/ , perhaps this is what you have seen in Holland. It is not plated and does not corrode, check out the link here, you may find it is available near to home. regards, Richard
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Richard 1943 Bedford QLD lorry - 1941 BSA WM20 m/cycle - 1943 Daimler Scout Car Mk2 Member of MVT, IMPS, MVG of NSW, KVE and AMVCS KVE President & KVE News Editor |
#10
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Last time I was across the line in Ogdensburg they had a coil of the copper/nickel alloy line at a bit less than three times the cost of the same length coil of plain steel line at Advance Auto Parts (and somewhat cheaper than at Fedhill). I have spoken with the owner of Fedhill and he says the cunifer pretzel on the home page was bent entirely by hand and that the one shown was the second try. The first didn't kink or anything but he just didn't think it was a tidy enough shape. I haven't worked with the cunifer but it sounds like a very nice option.
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#11
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Its called BUNDY tubing over here . It's steel coated with a zinc type coating . Seems to last OK
MIKE
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#12
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Hey Barry,
Bobbo is doin a great job on fixin those old army trucks, maybe time to get him one too!!!! Those brake lines we use here are full copper, you can also get steel as well ofcourse, but full copper is legally by law, not in Canada as you told me before. Bye for now, Stefan |
#13
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Thanks guys for all the interesting info. It certainly looks like there are quite a few options. Price of course has a bearing on our everday vehicles but we shouldn't have any trouble selling this better quality to the special vehicles.
Barry
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Every twenty minute job is one broken bolt away from a three day ordeal. |
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