Humber FV1611(A)

[FV1611A]

Removed the jerry can holder as they were losing condition. One of them showed the word Maddson?? Only spotted on one carrier though









Original WD stamped rear numberplate Convoy Light fitting lamp.



What the Andy 5000X is needed for





Noticed the tyres said 10 Ply followed by an 'L'. Other than Dunlop Track Grips made in England no other obvious markings?

[FV1611A]

I did have something military to kneel on.



The roof showing where the timber battens were to prop up the canvas cover.





Some more detail photos;








Is this the fuel change over item as was weeping with a smell of old linseed oil/ dead fuel smell?

[Richard Coutts-Smith]

"Is this the fuel change over item as was weeping with a smell of old linseed oil/ dead fuel smell?"
Looks more like the brake master cylinder to me.
Rich.

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by FV1611A

Removed the jerry can holder as they were losing condition. One of them showed the word Maddson?? Only spotted on one carrier though

It looks more like "Made in ..........." missing word could be England, normal for steel angle to be marked like this.

[FV1611A]

Richard I thought that but no it is definately Madison and I questioned incase known manufacturer to others.

Will get an easier to read image next time

[FV1611A]

Originally Posted by fv1620

Wayne here is the drawing made for cutting the main side. Obviously different for a FV1609 from a FV1611. As you will appreciate it is difficult take measurements for something that is in thin air. The net result was errors of an inch or so as something wasn't right with the angles, giving a deficiency one end & surplus the other



The result was to build the frame & feel happy with that then to cover it & cut it down to shape. Without the skill or equipment to spot-weld & I had no MIG at the time, I cheated by fixing the outer sheet to the wheel arch with countersunk rivets which were eventually smoothed over with filler. I just didn't want to risk melting through or buckling the thin sheet.



Given my propensity for reversing the Pig into various obstructions, the lockers on a frame have proved more durable & easier to repair than a more authentic series of flimsy sheets held together with spot-welds.

Yes various bits of CES & other kit could go in the lockers, no specific space allocations. Unless you keep it under cover from the rain there isn't too much you would want to store in there given the points of entry for water & worse on yours as you have another hinge.

Incidentally the picture of it in red oxide, the top lockers hasps were just from B&Q & are surprisingly close to what was originally fitted. The small side locker is original with its original hasp that is far enough away to pass as being the same. The crudely welded domestic hinges have been criticised, but as you realise when you look at yours these are entirely original fittings that were on the NOS lids I was lucky enough to have.

The bits I had were mainly front wing under locker support pieces & I think perhaps part of the locker internals. There was the top side hinged piece & I think in Reading the main side wall that it attaches to over the wheel arch.

PS You will see my comment to the metal cutter to make the cuts a bit wide in case the geometry was wrong! This proved very worthwhile, even so I was still short along one edge but by tilting it I was able to get full coverage for trimming down. On reflection I should have just order a more basic shape to give me plenty of spare to play with. All I wanted was to have sheets that were of a manageable size that could be fixed to the frame to give support & enhance the quality of cut. Having rigid support like this it was quite easy to cut it into shape with those very thin angle grinder discs.

Clive in the afore images did you attach the angle to the top of the wheelarch or did you attach the wheelarch to the frame with plug welds?? The wheelarch profiles are made from quite flimpsy gauge steel as I have a pair of NOS.

Thanks in advance

[fv1620]

Don't look at the welding bodges!

[FV1611A]

Originally Posted by Richard Coutts-Smith

"Is this the fuel change over item as was weeping with a smell of old linseed oil/ dead fuel smell?"
Looks more like the brake master cylinder to me.
Rich.

Hi Richard.

Yes it was the brake master cylinder....A good look under FV1609 the next day as well as a technical review with Clive was worth its weight in gold. Especially as I now know where the Torque Reaction Bracket is, at long last....................

[FV1611A]

Sorry for being absent from the site chaps, but I am delighted to state that 13BK33 has come back to life.

I am unawares of how long it is since she has run, but it has been many, possibly many, many years.

It took some time to get her to breath, but after a lot of wheezing, coughing and spluttering she actually turned over and then eventually ran and ticked over nicely.

A true testament to the Rolls Royce engineering and the condition of her electrics.

I must confess that whilst the lockers have perished, inside she is more like a time capsule, preserved from the elements by her armoured cloak.

I even had the windscreen wipers working.

This is a major chapter for me and her restoration, which has now eradicated the 'Will she ever start' question.

I hope the video can be viewed by everyone and a side shot of her stood in the sunshine ticking over.

Upwards and onwards.

[FV1611A]

Clive do you happen to know the gauge / thickness of the original material used for the side lockers and rear wheel arches by chance.

Your image above states 1.6mm, which is 16gauge. Looking at my NOS panels I haven't measured yet but suspect they are either 18gauge (1.27mm) or 20gauge (0.953mm).

Do any of your documents on file quote such specifics.

I know from physically seeing yours that the thicker steel is much more sensible and robust and I am tempted to follow your lead with my lockers.

I have some of the panels from the front lockers as you know in varying states of condition and would use these as templates.

I think that one of the reasons why these panels rot so easily is because of the thin metal and having folded edges for strength, which in turn trap moisture. Thicker metal won't allow folded edges to be neat and slender meaning that the flaps and lids wouldn't fit over the panels below?

I may also need a Humber to measure from, albeit the original angle framework on the hull will be a good starting point.

Thoughts?

Cheers

[FV1611A]

I have a selection of some original panels to use as a guide and template and also have measured up to produce some simple CAD details in 2D.

The first item to be made was a mirror of the front top part of the rear lockers, which came out pretty good.

More panels to follow in due course.

[FV1611A]

The red light is staying lit on my control panel.

Belts are tight!

I need to run some checks on the generator output and generator panel, but wondered if people had had similar experiences with their RR B engines.

I have a Generator and Panel. Both No1 Mk1.

Ta

[Richard Coutts-Smith]

The points in your Generator Panel probably need a good clean. They tend to "varnish" up being in a sealed unit. A bit of wet/dry may not good be enough as the coating may be quite hard, I happened to have a small diamond file which finally did the trick. It took an Industrial Elec. mate of mine 8 hours to workout how the electrical system was supposed to work and what the problem was, the first thing we had done was clean the points, but at the end of the day it turned out that we had only polished them, not cleaned them.
Got caught with a charging issue on Champ last year, the yellow and red dash bezells had been swapped, which was surprisingly confusing......
Rich.

[FV1611A]

Richard

I've now taken off the generator and it will work like a motor when connected to a 24v supply, as suggested in the EMER.

I suspect the issue could now be with the generator panel, so I will look into your suggestion.

The Piggy had been stood for years before I bought her, so it's possible and worth further exploration.

I'll update the thread once I have done some more investigating.

In the meantime thanks for the comments

[FV1611A]

After some trials and tribulations we now have a Pig that's charging.

Initially at 34v output, but after a session of adjustment on the voltage regulator and the cut out I have 27.5v.

Just need to do a full 'Load' test when lights all connected etc to check voltage output and current regulator working as they should.

Moving onto brakes next

[FV1611A]

I haven't been doing as much as I hoped on the Humber, or my Land Rover Mk8 FFR, due to a few factors.


I have however got my Humber charging again with a take-off Genny Panel from Clive.


Also I have replaced the down-pipe and fitted a new silencer, so need to photo those.


I have been working on the gearbox and side compressor recently whilst sorting out the lack of brakes!


Leading to a compressor and gearbox full of awful crud..... Lots of rinsing out was needed.....


Overhauled two master cylinders now and also refurbed the clutch header reservoir that I believe was originally black and then painted beige, so if anyone knows the correct colour in the cab area then please let me know.

[FV1611A]

As part of the work on the braking system I had to have this manufactured for me. Nice job done by an engineer that makes gearboxes for Rolls Royce as one of his contracts......





I will be able to re-assemble the hubs without damaging the oil seals or inner bearing

Lovely to see it wrapped in oiled paper......

[FV1611A]

I hope this is of use to Humber owners.

Its the CAD drawing I produced for the machinist from info from Clive and Richard on HMVF forum.