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#1
29-03-08, 22:59
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Quote:
The one's you shorted out and caused the engine to die are working ok..Sometimes the heat of the running engine will loosen up the others.. But pulling the intake manifold off will give you access to the bottoms and you may see that the valve stems are rusted.. and sticking.. The valve springs close the valves so sometimes a good squirt of penetrating oil will free them up .. Try prying them up off the cam after spraying..The valve spring will put the pressure to on them to close them..It may take some frigging around and some more penetrating oil..Make sure after you get them all freed up..wash everything into the sump with diesel fuel and drain well and wash again with some new engine oil and drain that and then put your new engine oil in that you are going to run with.. Turning the engine over by hand with the plugs out will be good for the valves to loosen them up..
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: 
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#2
30-03-08, 00:19
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I would agree with Alex about the valves. If you can get the motor to run, the heat might help. But if you run it too long with a stuck valve, you will burn the valve or worse yet the seat. You can free the valves either from the intake, or by removing the head and giving them a little tap each time they don't go down. After doing this a dozen or so times, they will free up. Best bet is to only tap them while the opposite valve of that cylinder has fully risen to the top.
To jump the carrier, run a small jumper wire for power (negative) to the neg terminal of the coil. The positive side of the coil (positive is the ground on these old fords) connects to the points. Is your coil the one right on the distributer, or the one mounted up top of the engine? You can do this with 12 volts for a short time if you respect that the coil will not be happy in the long term. Otherwise, you will want to reduce the voltage to the coil by either using a 6 volt battery, or else a resister inline to the coil to drop the voltage. The starter will handle 12 volts without a problem. Check for spark while the engine is turning over. In all likelihood though, you will have to, at a minimum, replace the points. As a temporary fix, you can lightly file them until they are clean. The points generally aren't found at NAPA or Cdn tire anymore (although NAPA seems to come or go when it comes to some of these vintage parts) . A place like MACs, or any of the Ford vintage supply houses, can fix you up with new points. If your coil is the one mounted directly to the distributer, for the longterm, look at replacing it with a new one, or installing one of those kits that let you use a newer coil. If it is one of the coils mounted independently over the head, you can still get those through Cdn tire. Good luck with your motor.
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#3
30-03-08, 03:13
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valves
Sometimes you can free up the valves through the spark plug hole. But don't get too violent. Tap the valve that you can see with a screw driver, if you can't see the valve it's not far. I've used a bent screw driver and felt for the valve. First take out the plugs and turn over the motor and see witch ones aren't moving and go from there. You may have to repeat this a few times. If you have compression in that many cylinders it may start like that and that will warm it up and loosen the others. If it starts there is no need to rev it up too much as that won't give the stuck valves time to operate. Good luck. That good damp Ontario air is great for sticking valves in the old flatheads. Mine used to sit sometimes for a few years and they were always sticking. Since I brought it out west I haven't had any trouble at all.
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Model U.C. NO-2 MK II.* SERIAL 25680 HULL 24699. LOWER HULL 24742. ENGINE TL-26707-F. C.D. 2609. BUILT MAR. 25, 1944. CT 266677 Former WASP
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#4
30-03-08, 03:20
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Send us some photo's. love to see it. I don't remember seeing one in huntsville. Then again I don't remember much.
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Model U.C. NO-2 MK II.* SERIAL 25680 HULL 24699. LOWER HULL 24742. ENGINE TL-26707-F. C.D. 2609. BUILT MAR. 25, 1944. CT 266677 Former WASP
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#5
30-03-08, 19:49
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just got back from pulling the heads on both sides. What was beneath was a lot of carbon, some rust and some valves were really crudded up. I cleaned the head and block, piston heads and the smooth (now) faces of the head and block. Some of the studs came out, others the nuts undid. I'm not 100% sure the reason. Hopefully I'll be able to get them back properly. The gaskets are complete but pretty messed up. I'm looking for new ones right now. I ran the starter and the valves seem to be opening/closing now. I need some sort of tool though to turn the crank by hand so that I can get each valve to move up. Any suggestions? Also, any specific suggestions on gaskets?
TIA Cameron
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RCL br 232 Huntsville, ON Universal Carrier Mk 2
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#6
30-03-08, 19:57
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Quote:
__________________
Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk:
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#7
30-03-08, 20:14
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so if I understand you Alex I can measure the ID of the hand crank pulley and create a rod with a pin which is drilled thru the rod like a T. This slips into the crankshaft.
I think we can fashion up something like that. Cameron
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RCL br 232 Huntsville, ON Universal Carrier Mk 2
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#8
30-03-08, 20:16
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Parts
Cameron,
The friendly folks at Mac's Antique Auto parts in Lockport, NY will have the stuff you need, or you may try the folks at Dennis Carpenter in the deep South. I heartilly recommend getting a modern cylindrical coil on that flatty. I remember a battery charger melting the repro coil on the distributor for 90 bucks - then I got an adaptor to use the $13 one availible at TSC. As far as I know only Bob Carriere in Ottawa has valve cover gaskets for your Universal Carrier motor. Stewart
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