![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I had the engine running in a couple of hours shortly after receiving the CGT, amazing since it probably had not run in many years. It's a sorry state of affairs but the main components are are all intact, the engine, transmission, transfer case, winch, axles, shafts all good. Even the fair leads front and back were there.
As best as I could tell this vehicle was released from the Canadian army in 1958 and rear body removed to be used to as a "crummy" for hauling loggers up to the top of a local mountain until the late sixty's. It subsequently became a back yard toy in Maple Ridge in the 70's where a current member of Western Command Jeff Davis played in it as a child probably well into the seventy's. In the early 80's it went to a farm near Mission and ended up parked on a hill pointed nosed down held back by its played out winch cable wrapped around a tree. I had just restored an CDN M37 and was looking for a new project something Canadian, WW 2 and unique. I felt this CGT could be a fully restored driver, so with patience and time (man hours) this project began as a complete frame off restoration right from the beginning. Attached are pictures of the tear down. My target for the first winter was to have the drive train done. Even with rusty bolts a little heat from an oxy/acetylene torch did the trick in most case bolts and nuts spun off. Its amazing how good WW 2 steel is when you work with it. Well it ended up taking 2 years for this phase. The only major missing item was the rear body, so I started an internet search for one. That story comes later. Last edited by Walde Libera; 23-02-08 at 05:35. Reason: grammar |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Stripped of all parts, the rolling chassis was transported on a trailer and thoroughly sand blasted. re-worked the frame front to back, had to made new rear cross-member and repair a rusted through front cross member. Axles were at this time left alone except for removing the brakes and backing plates so I could move it around easier. Extensive use of the mig welder improved the look greatly in cleaning up any heavy pitting especially in the mid section where there was more exposure to the weather. A couple coats good quality high build etching primer, than 2 coats of the OD color coat finished the job.
Each bolt on accessory piece went through the same process. I also managed to find a second set of 5-20 inch wheels complete with ID tags. Comes in handy, leaving a swing set of wheels set you don't have to worry about over spray on the old set and damaging your show rims. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
This CGT had no brakes when I got it, no surprise, but once I sandblasted the shoes they came out just like new as they were not being used. No reason to replace shoes as they are the old asbestos type which work better and can take more heat with out damage not like the modern carbon fiber type. Changed all 4 brake slave cylinders with new 1 1/2" brand name jobbers still commercially available.Both differentials were inspected, but I re-torqued all bolts; but great condition otherwise. The only issues were sourcing seals which I usually substituted for modern neoprene seals. These vehicles don't get a lot of usage tend to sit for months and will dry out leather type leaving you with little reminders every where you park. I used a vernier to measure old seals ID and OD measurements and bring the old seals and bearings to the bearing and seal suppliers for match up. The only bearings that I changed were all 4 wheel bearings as they showed signs of water damage and brinelling from sitting in one spot parked for a long time I guess? Kept a list of all jobber part numbers for seals and bearings for the future. This is a 6" front axle set up. I used a heavy coating of Lubriplate brand grease as it has good properties like rust prevention and won't absorb water as much.The rear drums were turned and I had to replace both fronts with NOS ones which I found locally as they were egg shaped.
Gaskets were usually eliminated with a top quality silicon based gasket eliminator at the hub mating flanges, differential covers.I found this prevents most leaks. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
That's really good work, you are obviously up to the mechanical work.
I'd never have bought it without a body though. I could see the logic if you had found a body, then went out to buy a cab and chassis to go with it, but I'm assuming Canada is the same as the UK and Europe at least - there are five chassis cabs sitting for every original body you could find.
__________________
Gordon, in Scotland |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
..... Doing a great job Walde. What was the date you actually got it home..?
I started mine during a one week power failure in August 2004....feels like last week..... and probably have another two years to go. Do you have the brake power booster....... we have not been able to source parts for them this side of the pond...... fortunately Dirk has the parts and may have to get them in to finish the job. I envy the cab space in your cab 13........ I may have to stop drinking beer to loose enough weight to fit in my cab 11...... hihihi what have you done to the engine yet..... will you run the 216..??? Keep showing us pictures.... most of us can't read...... Boob
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I managed to locate a correct partial body at the same time as I bought the CGT. It was at least the important part, the bottom 1/2 complete with doors. The problem was they were 5500km apart. I bought it at the same time as the Chassis with pics sent from the Elliot Bros. in Newtonville Ontario They said I could pic it up later so I restoration of the chassis and front body.A couple years or so later I flew to Toronto on business and made arrangements to ship the body to Vancouver. The Elliot brothers let me spend a day with there own FAT so I drew and recorded measurements the necessary missing portions and took tons of photos after all its mostly sheet metal. Also one of the local Western command members was finishing a cab 11 FAT so I had some access to body configuration details as they are very similar especially at the back. I attached a few pics, this is 15th field CGT just about finished about 4 years ago.
Quote:
Last edited by Walde Libera; 02-03-08 at 19:27. Reason: grammar |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Well as long as you had it all planned. I'd hate to get a good job done on the mechanicals and be left without a body.
One further problem - what's that cabover down the side in one shot? It looks like it should be a GMC or the like, but I don't recognise the type or the headlight position - got a good image of it? Gordon
__________________
Gordon, in Scotland |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
....but.....but...... I thought you were working on a cab 13.......
did you get a whole cab 12 body from Elliott....... Boy that generates a whole bunch of questions..... and hopefully more pictures.... did you use a later 13 frame and swap the cab 12..... ?? What kind of problems did you run into with the floor plate of the cab 12 and fitting the levers...... Oh .... by the way... when you have a nice sunnt day and take out the COE inside the lean to..... can we have some pictures....pleeeeze! and its provenance... looks unusual. Bob
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
![]()
__________________
Cheers Cliff Hutchings aka MrRoo S.I.R. "and on the 8th day he made trucks so that man, made on the 7th day, had shelter when woman threw him out for the night" MrRoo says "TRUCKS ROOLE" ![]() |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Its a 1941 GMC wireless, a Western Command members vehicle, I don't have a lot of pictures of it right now, just a distant shot at last years Arlington air show. Also a shot of my CGT cab 13 rear body after I stripped it of the rusty bits, its much further along now.
|
#11
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Quote:
Thanks for the update. Looks like a job well done! From the pictures it seems you have done (most of?) the work in a double car garage. Is that right? Space seems too tight, but I guess if you plan well ahead it can be done in tight quarters. Enquiring minds want to know! Thanks, Hanno
__________________
Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hanno
Yes, a 20' X 25' garage with an 8 foot ceiling, stuffed with tools, large mig welder, compressor, oxy/acet set etc, etc. This is the main area where I work on the various phases of a restoration. Job 1, chassis, drive-train, wheels/tires than to storage in the back yard in a 10X20 portable shed. Job 2 was the front cab body assembly, floor frame, doors, roof, nose, fenders. Job 3 is rear body. In my back yard I have lane access where I have a carport and 2 portable shelters, one is used as a temporary paint booth and the other is used for my other vehicles. Because of the milder weather on the west coast plus the garage is attached to the house it holds heat easier so I can work pretty well work year round. I try to do at least 2 hours per day and full days on most Saturdays and Sundays. Some of the issues are simply the the added need to keep things under control dirt wise, clutter wise and keep things as clean as possible as our home is part of the garage. For example I have to stop grinding by 9 PM or the kid can't sleep, than flip over to quiet work til 10 PM. My wife Rosella has been exceptionally supportive so in return I make time, stop MV restorations sometimes for months at time and do home renovations, its all about balance. So be prepared to take some extra time to do a good restoration. I try to do something every day, even if its 15 minutes worth of work, every item completed is another step closer to completion. Also cash wise spreading the cost out over a few years allows it to fall into your budget easier. Attached aree some more restoration pics of the drive train in the first phase, I am working towards the completion of the first phase in my updates so I can get to the more current stuff with a few pics of the transfer case and other accessories. I used lots of grease on the shifter before I bolted it up. The only item I couldn't source were the little springs on the end of the shifter that unlock the shifter, they were all rusted away, might have to make them? Still have to work 4 more years of employment before retirement; than I can spend more time relaxing doing MV restorations. |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Inspiring stuff Walde.
Always enjoy photos and info of restoration progress. ![]() |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Love them filthy pictures......
..... what is that rubber line coming out of the T Case......??? oil cooler??? On the shift tower.... better dig up that famous Lubriplate for those shifting bars before you seal it up...... it is a bad design for rust buildup..... Keep them coming..... Bob C.
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Bob, I think the oil line you are looking at is attached to another device that is mainly hidden behind the transfer case. There is also a ring gear visible at the left of the transfer case, where no CMP case should have a ring gear. Based on the Detroit Diesel Allison manuals and some of the tooling seen in the photos, I think Walde may have a sideline in heavy equipment repair.
|
#16
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
.... I think you are correct Sherlock !!!!!!!
From the heavy stell pipe stand Walde is certainly not into repairing fine Swiss Watches....... No wonder he is doing such a fine job..... BooB
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
![]() |
|
|