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  #1  
Old 21-06-23, 15:39
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default One more point for your list.

Hi Grant

Would add one particular point to discuss with your fabricator. Do they measure to the inside of the bend or outside of the bend.

When I had the replacement inside frame rails my C60L bent they confused inside with outside of the bend on the channel bends for the rails. Meant having to remove 1/4 inch down the entire length.

Cheers Phil
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  #2  
Old 21-06-23, 16:17
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Waterman View Post
Hi Grant

Would add one particular point to discuss with your fabricator. Do they measure to the inside of the bend or outside of the bend.

When I had the replacement inside frame rails my C60L bent they confused inside with outside of the bend on the channel bends for the rails. Meant having to remove 1/4 inch down the entire length.

Cheers Phil
Very true, I recall your description of the diagonal slice to adjust the size and the amount of work it caused. Bob and I should be down to see you at Weare next month.
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  #3  
Old 21-06-23, 23:45
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Default

One other point

When providing a sample piece. Make sure they understand you want it made the same way as it was then. I’ve had a few times where the shop figured they knew best and made it how they would make it today.
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  #4  
Old 25-06-23, 13:45
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Default A bit more progress

Yesterday I broke out the rivetting tools (4x rivet gun - originally aircraft rivets, rivet cutting pliers) and we installed the early style tarp securing points onto the 2B1 body (and a serious smile onto Bob).

This is another case of the appropriate tools making a job much easier. The rivet cutting pliers shear the rivet while keeping the shank round to fit the workpiece holes. The trigger style used on the rivet gun makes it much easier to do one or two taps on the rivet to get it started before finishing the job.
Bob had recovered every one of the brass securing points he could find on his property - and ended up with exactly the number needed, no spares. Copper flathead rivets were used as per original. Bob had bought a bag of 100 (42 needed for the job) to allow for experimentation, cutting failures, riveting failures and dropped on the floor and lost. In the end these only added up to 6 rivets so a bag of 50 would have been enough but the supplier's https://www.rivetsonline.com/copper-rivets minimum order of 100 had been a reasonable privce including prompt delivery.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2B1 left rear panel rivetted.jpg (244.1 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 2B1 tailgate tiedowns 2.jpg (230.4 KB, 3 views)
File Type: jpg 2B1 tailgate tiedowns.jpg (258.4 KB, 2 views)
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  #5  
Old 26-06-23, 06:39
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Rivetting experience......

Well never to late to learn new tricks.......

Thanks to the coaching and assistance from Grant, we have done the "hot" steel rivets on the tail gate and the soft copper rivets using his "special" aircraft riveting gun which is far more controllable than the PA air hammer.....

We even used some body shop steel glue to seal up the bulkhead of the 2B1 to the floor.......... we had used the same glue before for the re-skinning of the back cab wall skin and the inside "W" ribbing on the back of the cab....and it has not fallen off yet!!!!

Will be dormant for the next two weeks while vacationing on White lake.

Cheers
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  #6  
Old 27-06-23, 04:51
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant Bowker View Post
Yesterday I broke out the rivetting tools (4x rivet gun - originally aircraft rivets, rivet cutting pliers) and we installed the early style tarp securing points onto the 2B1 body (and a serious smile onto Bob).

This is another case of the appropriate tools making a job much easier. The rivet cutting pliers shear the rivet while keeping the shank round to fit the workpiece holes. .....
I may arrange for a shop visit with a 1950s plastic binoculars case. The vinyl hinge has come apart, and it needs ---- some copper rivets. Otherwise, it is a serviceable period artifact for my Jeep.
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  #7  
Old 29-06-23, 01:38
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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More progress.

Stffening braces adde to the inside of the headboard.
Upper mounts for the hoopsticks (to use the description form the DND Body Parts list) added to the upper side panels. The hoopsticks will definitely need the lower hoopstick brackets for stabolity but it was nice to do the test fit and have the hoopsticks just fit nicely into place with no force required. Yes, you think that carefully measured and manufactured parts should fit but it's still a good feeling when they actually do.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2B1 headboard bracing installed.jpg (201.5 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 2B1 RR hoopstick upper mount.jpg (481.6 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 2B1 RHS with hoopsticks.jpg (317.9 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 2B1 rear right with hoopsticks.jpg (293.9 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 2B1 left rear with hoopsticks.jpg (302.1 KB, 2 views)
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  #8  
Old 30-06-23, 03:48
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Can you do a jig......?

No ........Not dancing.

Grant is working on fabricating a jig to do the bottom "hoop" holders so they will all be the same style/size.

Meanwhile, I am house bound, packing for next week at a cottage......
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