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There is no question where the map light sits...I have the lamp and the holes. It sits on the channel frame just under the windshield smack in front of the co-driver on the left. The question is if the feed wire comes from the centre of the vehicle (what I'm calling the engine bay) along that windshield channel to the lamp (which I think is correct and there's a hole for it plus the wire is completely protected) vs. along the left frame rail and up through my mystery hole. There really is no other options and no need for anything else electrical in that location. Maybe my hole was bubba after all and he just got lucky with a notch on the underside. For now it stays plugged. The only record I recall reading about HUWs many years ago was a list of things that broke and fell apart after one of those army torture test runs. It was quite a long list leading me to believe these trucks were somewhat fragile. No matter, I intent to baby her. Last edited by Bruce Parker (RIP); 03-10-22 at 14:36. |
#2
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Hi Bruce
I know what the hole is for and will take some photos to explain today if I can. Basically it's for the side shield in the wheel well. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#3
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Well that's got my attention!!! It's just inboard of the four holes for the rad overflow can so I doubt you can get your fingers in there from the underside. So another captive nut (...I'm getting sick of them) on the shield?
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#4
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Hi Bruce
On the later HUPs that hole is one of two mounting studs for the splash shield on earlier trucks this shield was held in by 5 bolts the later ones are a slip in and turn latch. Beast Questions_5256.jpg Beast Questions_5257.jpg Beast Questions_5262.jpg Beast Questions_5259.JPG Yes you can just get the shield out without removing the expansion tank. You turn the latch pull out on the panel and scrape your knuckles. The two mounting post/studs are a source of rattles and squeaks. My expansion tank is fabricated about 40 years ago still good, and yes it works very good to collect the over flow and have it drawn back into the engine. Hope these help. Also took some photos of the map light and how the wire is routed if you want them. Along with the wire route for the dome light. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#5
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That's it Phill. If you ever want to sacrifice a little skin I'd love details on that panel so I can make one. Mine is long gone.
What was confusing me is that my hole was not a clean punched oval like yours. It looked more like an irregular torch cut. Anyway, simple to correct as the cowl is off and accessible. I have some of those access covers that came off a 60cwt Chev but of course they will be different... I would appreciate any info on the map light (HUWs don't have a dome light). It has its own switch so the power must come right off the ammeter? I expect it would be before the ignitions so it could operate all the time with no worries. One additional question, that turn latch at the front, I assume it attaches to the left side of the rad carrier? Last edited by Bruce Parker (RIP); 04-10-22 at 01:30. |
#6
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Hi Bruce For a while my help will be limited to taking photos, or finding photos I've already taken. Right now I'm waiting to have back surgery, my ability to bend, extra, is limited as is my time at the computer. But keep posting on your progress, reading all the post in MLU is one of my favorite activities, that I can do on tablet when laying down. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#7
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Sorry to hear that Phil. I hope you're up and about quickly.
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#8
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I'm doing a hundred and one little things in preparation for ***THE BIG PAINT JOB***
I've already painted the cab interior and engine bay. Because the rear interior is white, the floor brown and the sliding roof hatch a little of each I've been agonizing over the order to paint things and how much masking it will take. Lots, no matter which way I go. Anyway, after tomorrow the exterior should have 100% of its widgets and be ready for paint, likewise the interior. I installed the dash finally. The gauges are all correct CMP and the switches/switch plates are original, not reproductions or decals. I shall baby them.... I left the temp gauge out because I don't want to risk damaging its cable during the engine install. |
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