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#1
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It's pretty sweet that this corporations are willing to help. So many this days would just ignore you or tell you that you're out of luck.
__________________
V/R James D. Teel II Edmond, Oklahoma Retired Police Sergeant/Bomb Tech 1943 Willys MB/ITM jeep 1942 SS Cars No1Mk1 LtWt trailer |
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#2
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I finally got the available data on the Shakeproof Washers sorted out and into a spreadsheet, copy attached.
I am sure there are a lot more Shakeproof washers out there, but this list was assembled simply from the washers identified in the Hardware List for the Wireless Set No. 19 Mk III Cdn and the Hardware List for the Wireless Set No. 52 Canadian. The Shakeproof washers found in the 52-Set have been highlighted for quick reference but please bear in mind, many or all of these highlighted items can also be found in the 19-Set Mk III Cdn. Hope this helps a bit. David |
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#3
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I removed the two Shakeproof No. 18 Cowl Fasteners from the front panel this evening, so this panel is now free standing and ready for restoration.
The tricky part of removing these fasteners is getting the old Cross Pin out of the stud. I have found a two-step process that works pretty well when the Cross Pins are intact and straight. I manoeuvre the panel and fastener over one end of my bench vise such that the stud rests along the opening of the jaws, which are open only enough for the pin to fir into the gap. While holding that all in place, I then tap one end of the Cross Pin gently down until it is reasonably flush with the stud. I can then put a small set of vise grip pliers on the exposed end of the Cross Pin and tug it straight out. The current maker of the Cross Pins does not recommend twisting the pin as you pull, as you run a really good risk of snapping the pin and will end up trying to drift it out with a small pin punch. Doing that runs the risk of oversizing the hole in the stud and the replacement Cross Pin will no longer stay put. David |
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#4
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Hi James.
Yes, when original suppliers are still around, and are still proud of their corporate history, it makes a huge difference when working on projects like this, so far after production. David |
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#5
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This is a photo of the front panel plate from this assembly showing the bend in it I will have to remove. The bottom end of the plate is to the left of the photo.
I think it should straighten out just fine with a little hammer work one morning down the road. David |
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#6
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I started removing the paint from the front panel of this assembly today, The paint had cracked along the bottom section of the panel where the bend in it took place, and it seemed like a good test area to see how easy the task would be to remove the lower section of paint.
Considering this panel was repainted in 1966, it was pretty much guaranteed a lead based paint had been used, so I was not interested at all in sanding it down. I also was not in the mood to bundle up and drive over to the nearest hardware store for a can of stripper, so decided scraping it off would work just fine. By setting the panel at the front of a large brown paper bag, I can scrape towards the bag and all the little bits fly happily into it, and not my pail of fresh tea at the side of the bench. The red oxide primer that turned up on the back of the grey paint chips confirmed this was indeed a 1966 rebuild. A grey primer was used by Canadian Marconi for all their paint priming of the other front panels on the 52-Set. Whoever repainted this panel at 202 Workshop did an excellent job. Once all the paint is removed, I will do the straightening of the panel and give it a light sanding before repainting it. David |
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#7
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One other thing of note today.
It has been six weeks now since I finished work on the Connectors, Twin No. 17, and I noticed today they no longer smell like popourri. Just a nice old cloth cable kind of smell. David |
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