Lynx II, hull # 4225

[Andrew Rowe]

Had this happen in an old tractor crane of mine, and usually the only way was to take the gearbox top off and re-set the gears and gates in the right position with a big screw driver. Having said that you should be able to access the side of the box from underneath the Lynx, but if reverse is really jammed, you may not get it back in by working the remote shifters, your only option maybe gearbox side off, as , as you know the lid is mounted on the vertical , instead of in the horizontal plane like standard trucks, Cheers Andrew.

[rob love]

I was always able to go back into the gear last used and re-shift it.



Colin: The shift rods are accessible, and should be able to do what you are speaking of. I am pretty sure the "skip" is in the remote gear change box.



Pretty sure I have told this story before as well: When I first started working on this Lynx, it would get stuck in third or fourth gear (can't remember for sure now). After doing a ton of work on it, during the road test it got stuck again. I managed to work it onto the hoist, and was ready to drain the transmission to pull the shifter when I noticed a cotter pin missing on a clevis pin on those remote rods. The pin would sneak down and get jammed on a neighboring pin. Cheap and easy fix: a 2¢ cotter pin.

[Peter Duggan]

Guys,

The problem was with the front shifter linkage and not the transmission. Drained the transmission and there was no metal or debris in the oil. Jacked up the rear wheels to remove any load from the transmission, removed the inspection cover for the rear shifter, couldn't find anything amiss. Moved to the front shifter and barely touched the 3rd/4th shifter and it popped into neutral.

Road test suggests there is no problem with the shifters but that some driver training is required.

Peter


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[Harry Moon]

Using experience learned the hard way, sometimes repeatedly I practice using a very light touch with the shifter. But still sometimes when i go to get out of the 3-4 gate to the 1-2 gate it goes into mystery gate and is still in whatever gear it was last in. I learned not to fight or force it but to lift the reverse gate on the shifter and take the shifter over to the reverse gate, not down into gear, just into the gate. Once there I release the lever and gently move it over and it goes into the proper gate between 1,3 and 2,4. I noticed I have to do this at least once a day with then prompts me to lighten my grip on the shifter to finger tips only.
but this winter I'm pulling the transmission to inspect it anyways.

[Peter Duggan]

Harry,

Thanks for sharing your shifter experiences and the techniques that you practice. Good luck with your transmission and please share your findings.

Again, thanks

[Doug Lavoie]

Great to see you have no major issues with the tranny. Happy trails!

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by rob love

....
Pretty sure I have told this story before as well: When I first started working on this Lynx, it would get stuck in third or fourth gear (can't remember for sure now). After doing a ton of work on it, during the road test it got stuck again. I managed to work it onto the hoist, and was ready to drain the transmission to pull the shifter when I noticed a cotter pin missing on a clevis pin on those remote rods. The pin would sneak down and get jammed on a neighboring pin. Cheap and easy fix: a 2¢ cotter pin.

I had a Mustang car suddenly give me a loose shift lever and no gear change. After it was towed, and an hour of shop time, the culprit was a similarly negligible detent ball somewhere. It might have been .50¢ on the invoice.

And good discussion of how to keep old vehicles running after all the usual chatting about rebuilding them.

[Peter Duggan]

David,

The basic measurements are 3 5/8" thick at the top tank, 25 7/8" wide and 29' tall from the top of the upper tank to the base of the bottom tank. There was an add on MLU, this summer that was for a WW 11 generator. It was powered by a period Ford flat head and the radiator certainly appeared to be the same. I'm suggesting that this radiator was used for more than the Lynx.

Peter


rad2.jpg

rad1.jpg

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Peter Duggan

David,

The basic measurements are 3 5/8" thick at the top tank, 25 7/8" wide and 29' tall from the top of the upper tank to the base of the bottom tank. There was an add on MLU, this summer that was for a WW 11 generator. It was powered by a period Ford flat head and the radiator certainly appeared to be the same. I'm suggesting that this radiator was used for more than the Lynx.

Peter


Attachment 126592

Peter, does the image from the manual also show the full part number? There is a NOS radiator on ebay at the moment (https://www.ebay.com/itm/33304539102...sAAOSwhJFb8duO) for an 11A-8005B. While similar, the top tank appears taller than the Generator rad.

[Andrew Rowe]

The Canadians manufactured larger "Rear engine chassis " during the war , as used in the "Indian Pattern Wheeled Carrier's " . These use a very similar
radiator, but the filler cap position and the crank hole in the core are offset, to the middle on the Lynx, but physical dimensions are the same , cheers Andrew.

[Peter Duggan]

Andrew,

The parts manual shows C29SR 8005B for the radiator assembly. This suggests that it is even different than the earlier marks of the Lynx.

Peter