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#1
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The dreaded "lunatic stick". There are not many other options in a carrier. I have started mine with the crank handle. A V8 is less likely to kick you than a 4 cylinder.
Btw, if you don't know, don't wrap your thumb around it, just like you don't put your thumbs inside a CMP steering wheel off road.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... Last edited by Lynn Eades; 01-10-21 at 09:26. |
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#2
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Guys,
Buttoned up the back end and was well satisfied with a good test run. I recognized that the front end shimmy (after hitting a sharp bump) was beyond my limited skills and enlisted Gerry Foster for help solve the issue. Went through the front end without finding any smoking guns. Gerry took a systematic and layered approach. He determined that the Lynx has a multitude of issues that on their own weren't dramatic, but they all added up to create a problem. The U bolts for the front springs were no longer tight and allowed slight movement under heavy load. Torqued properly. Slight misalignment of the front wheels. Realigned. Movement in LF wheel bearing. Inner spacer removed to be machined. Slop in the steering column due to improper fitting shims. Steering wheel removed to add set screws. Next trial should be interesting. Thanks to Robin Craig for the pictures. Peter gf2.jpg gf3.jpg |
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#3
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Hi Peter, have you had a chance to check the king pins with the shims, and also the bush that goes through the chassis for the sector shaft extension shaft, is that in good condition?,. Not looking up the book , but I think the King Pins should have a certain amount of resistance , which you can determine with a "Fish Scale" , and that will tell you how many foot pounds of pull is required to move your front hub back and forth, hence the correct preload on those King Pins ,
Cheers Andrew
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Valentine MkV Covenanter MkIV Lynx MKI and MKII Loyd Carrier / English / Candian / LP. M3 Stuart |
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#4
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after a number of years with no issues I too had a shimmy when last driven in August. Checked things over and the only issue I could see that needed rectifying was the output bearing on the transfercase front axle output. It was noticeably loose so I took it out and replaced it. Haven't done more than a few kilometres on it so don 't know if that cured it.
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#5
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Hi Guys
When chasing shimmy don't forget tire pressure, I've spent days chasing out all the play in the front end of CMPs sometimes with no luck. Then for laughs tried changing front tire pressure. Started at the low end then took them up 5 psi at a time and the shimmy started changing found a pressure where the shimmy only occurred well above comfortable driving speed for that truck. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
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#6
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Further to the comments above, also read Chevrolet C60s - Front Wheel "shimmy"
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
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#7
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It was the truck tire shop that told me to play with the tire pressure and rotate tires. After exhausting all the finer adjustments ni COMPLIED.
Now I am using the 10.50 x 16 and after some Tire rotation and reduction from 50 to 35 pounds all around the shimmy went away....... and the lower pressure gives a better ride..... The old rules about checking up on loose bolts is valid....... after two years of driving the Spring check up turned up two rear axle U bolts loose....a quick fix but how does it happen????? Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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