How To: C8A restoration in Holland

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by 8threcce

Please see the pictures of the hatch lever that is located outside the hatch and inside the slide rail (a simple U profile)
You can see that the ball part has extensive wear and is flat on one side.
All levers on the hatch I have are having this flat spot which indicates to me that these ball didn't roll but just slide .....is this correct or should they indeed roll which seems obvious to me ...did any of you ever made new levers ?? I'm wondering with what I should replace this ball, seems to me that it's hard to make or to obtain as a ready made part......any suggestions welcome

Congratulations on getting the body back on!! It's a big step and all 'uphill' from there.

Going back to the sliding roof hatch in this earlier post, this is where I am now, remaking the tubes and levers. You had asked whether the bronze ends should roll noting the flat worn side. I think they should roll but were probably very quick to rust solid being where they were. Did you ever sort out for sure if they were meant to roll? I can't get mine to move no matter what and will have to drill them out and replace the rivet/axle if so.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Hi Pieter, congrats on the important milestone of the "marriage" of body and chassis.

I love the fact that it was done on the side of the road - just like the RCEME would have done!

[Gordon Yeo]

Originally Posted by Bruce Parker

Congratulations on getting the body back on!! It's a big step and all 'uphill' from there.

Going back to the sliding roof hatch in this earlier post, this is where I am now, remaking the tubes and levers. You had asked whether the bronze ends should roll noting the flat worn side. I think they should roll but were probably very quick to rust solid being where they were. Did you ever sort out for sure if they were meant to roll? I can't get mine to move no matter what and will have to drill them out and replace the rivet/axle if so.

Bruce

I have an early 1942 HUP that has the rollers with the flat spots. I think the original roller was bronze and quickly stops turning I had a good friend turn me up some brass rollers for replacements. The truck was finished about three years ago and is always in a dry well ventilated building. I just went and checked to see how free the rollers were and I think its a design flaw. There isn't much "leverage" on the roller to make it want to move and they will probably end up with flat spots any way

Gord

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Gordon Yeo

Bruce

I have an early 1942 HUP that has the rollers with the flat spots. I think the original roller was bronze and quickly stops turning I had a good friend turn me up some brass rollers for replacements. The truck was finished about three years ago and is always in a dry well ventilated building. I just went and checked to see how free the rollers were and I think its a design flaw. There isn't much "leverage" on the roller to make it want to move and they will probably end up with flat spots any way

Gord

Thanks Gord. My 'new' uninstalled hatch has three of the four arms and bronze rollers (one had snapped off) and of course were round. The fourth one that I pinched from my original (and well used) HUW hatch had that characteristic flat spot. I think I will grind off the backs, punch out the axle pins and replace, perhaps leaving a little more clearance. Oh, and oiling them daily.

[m606paz]

Great Job Pieter! Thanks for sharing!

[David Herbert]

How about using stainless steel for the pins so there is no question of corrosion. It might be possible to find stainless bolts with compatible dimensions.

David