Chev HUW door switch question

[David Dunlop]

A few questions, Bruce.

With the rear door closed, and properly aligned, how much free space (gap) do you have to work with between the edge of the door and the latch side frame?

With the door closed, does the large switch plunger hole disappear completely behind the edge of the door?

Do you know if the switch mounts directly against the inner face of the frame, or is the switch set back a bit from the frame by some form of spacer?

David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

A few questions, Bruce.

With the rear door closed, and properly aligned, how much free space (gap) do you have to work with between the edge of the door and the latch side frame?

With the door closed, does the large switch plunger hole disappear completely behind the edge of the door?

Do you know if the switch mounts directly against the inner face of the frame, or is the switch set back a bit from the frame by some form of spacer?

David

The gap between the body frame (with the switch) and the side of the door is about 1/2". The plunger hole (the big one) meets the middle of the vertical side of the door. The square flange of the switch mounts behind the door frame with only the plunger and two mounting screws projecting on the door opening side. I see no evidence of a spacer.

[David Dunlop]

Hi Bruce.

Sorry for the lack of colour in this quick sketch. the scanner is sulking tonight for some reason.

Back in the 1950's in these parts of the country, a very popular weather seal for exterior door was a slightly corrugated strip of spring brass, fitted to the door frame with brass nails. a quarter inch flat strip of the brass went at the outer edge of the frame and the brass strip angled in towards the door.

I think a similar concept in spring steel might have been used on the HUW to activate the door blackout switch. Very rough drawing attached.

A spring steel strip of the required width would mount to the two exterior holes close to the door frame. the strip would wrap around the door frame at 90 degrees and fit flush to the inner frame surface maybe one quarter to three eighths of an inch. This would prevent the door from binding against the metal strip. as the door moves further inward, it starts to flatten the spring steel against the door frame. at the open end of the strip, a small metal cup is rivited. this cup fits over the switch plunger and inside the plunger hole in the frame. The cup would need to be long enough to stay inside the door frame with the door open to avoid snagging on the frame.

I think the travel distance of the plunger will be critical for the right switch, and also as you mentioned, you need to find a spring loaded safety switch that shuts off when released, not turns on.

In the photo you posted of the two original switches, the one on the left looks like it has a circular collar fitted part way down the plunger. That might be a means for the cup on the spring metal strip to better engage with the plunger. Or I am dreaming again.

Hope this helps and doesn't muddy the waters too much.

David

[maple_leaf_eh]

I recall the door seals on the modern MLVW SEV boxes was a series of little fingers that were not unlike the conversation about, except not a continuous strip but 1/4" fingers perpendicular to the motion of the door. Same thing only different.

Likewise, the red light on/off switch was high up on the box like you've illustrated. The switch was different, just a spring finger that was closed when a door latch (a big interconnected set of latches actually) pushed it closed. Turn the door latch without thinking about the light colour, and there was enough of a closure seal to get the lights switched over before the door swung open.

But .... getting back to the repurposing suggestion, why not? The idea of wartime production was to use available commercial or industrial products that were suited. So a plunger light switch mounted in the door frame isn't far off.

[David Dunlop]

One more crazy thought before I call it a night, Bruce.

Following on what Terry just said. The wheel was very likely not reinvented when the CMP’s were designed and built. Commercially available items would have been used wherever possible to save time and money.

The blackout switches used on the 15-cwt Wireless 5 2K1 and 2K2 Bodies were a thicker style than those on your HUW. The plungers on them also functioned directly against the inside face of the rear entry door and Generator Compartment door, so much simpler operating action.

I wonder, however, if the same company perhaps made both switches commercially pre-war? If Gord Falk, or any other WIRE 5 owner with original blackout switches still available could check them for maker stamps, it might help trace the switches you need. Could be LEVITON, or any other prewar electrical supplier.

Also just a thought. If your generator is running, the exterior hatch would be open. Was there a blackout switch on the inner compartment door somewhere as well?

David