How To: 1944 Chev HUW restoration

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

If you were able to use the original, was there much work in repairing it?

Expanding on this, for what it's worth, sheet metal repairs have always scared me. Luckily CMPs are generally flat so complex compound curves and stampings are not a problem. And robust 18 gauge panels are way better than antique cars with their flimsy 22 gauge or thinner sections

Banged up sections are always a judgement call. Do you hammer them out or replace? If replace, can you match the contours of the original? If so, I've found pop rivets to align the new edges work...weld, then fill the rivet holes.

Filling holes has always been another problem. Bondo just didn't sit well with me and welding shut generally was messy and could distort if too much heat was applied. I've worked out a method where short MIG 'bursts' around the edge of the hole can fill it, followed by a reciprocal application on the inside, then grind smooth. I'm approaching 3/4" holes with some success.