Jeep project underway

[Philliphastings]

Hi Mike, great to see you stepping back into the Jeep restoration world.

I am facing the same parts supply V cost issues.

Do you harden the nuts you made ?

Cheers

Phill

[Mike Cecil]

Good to see, Mike. What vintage jeep is it - MB, MA, GPW ... and year?

The cost aspect is an interesting one. I've done a database with a column listing parts, and several columns, one for each parts supplier, where I put their listed prices for each item I am going to need. Amazing the differences between them for the same part, and of course, the added tax and shipping.

Like you, I'm also wrapping completed parts and boxing them up as I complete them, but I'm using cheap shop towel (crappy blue paper, comes in rolls) and masking tape.

Mike

[Mike K]

Hi Phil

The Hex bar I used to make the nuts , I am not sure what grade of steel it is - I think it's probably 1045 or similar which is medium carbon steel. It should be fine for this application. With buying parts , I have found RFJP to be hard to beat .Great communication and prices plus he goes out of his way to help you with the cheapest postage rates.

Mike

The Jeep is a basic generic MB but I will have to use some parts from the GPW I bought last year. The repro parts and the online information available now - if only we had this data earlier when we were not so fussy about bolt head markings .

[Mike Cecil]

Have to agree on both counts.

Many of the parts I've been buying have been from RFJP due to price, availability, level of service, and a proper, itemised and readable invoice. I also have the advantage in the USA of buying in lots of $200+ to receive free shipping. I still prefer Rockauto for bearings and seals, though, as I can get name brands. I still place some jobs locally, though, whenever I can, such as the generator and starter rebuilds I received back yesterday from Toby's Auto Elec, and the repro torque reaction springs done by Pohl Springs.

The internet/forums/FB have made answering queries easy and quick - a far cry from our earlier days of talking at club meetings and swap meets, eh Mike? In any event, I'm pretty sure an Army 'motor pool' rebuild or contractor were not too fussy about bolt head markings.

Looking forward to following your MB build.

Mike

[Mike K]

Made a start on the jeep spring pivot bolts. I can buy these from RFJP but the postage is high and I would prefer to learn some new skills.

This is a learning project for me, it involves turning, thread cutting, the use of a dividing head and thread tapping for the zerk grease fitting. I chose 4140 chrome moly alloy because it's a strong material, is easy to obtain and is relatively easy to machine in the tempered state .

First step is: turning the stock down to 9/16" ( .5625") and threading the ends to the correct N.F. thread pitch. I prefer the old HSS type single point tools that you grind to shape yourself on a bench grinder . The modern carbide insert tools, well, there are endless types and it is a never ending process finding the correct type to suit .

[Mike K]

I managed to do the threads on the pivot bolts. Single point thread cutting on a lathe is a somewhat meticulous job . If you lose concentration for half a second, the process usually ends in horrible mess.

Wrap the work piece in a piece of cut up Alu drink can and the chuck jaws will not mark the work piece !

[Philliphastings]

Hi Mike K,

Just curious how do you go about broaching the interference fit neck of the pivot bolts.

I have a good grasp of the more basic machining but broaching in such an inaccessable spot must be very tricky ?

Cheers

Phill