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  #1  
Old 06-11-20, 08:03
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 661
Default M8 restoration

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Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #2  
Old 06-11-20, 10:51
T Creighton T Creighton is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Katikati New Zealand
Posts: 167
Default Air trapped in the vertical cylinder ??

Hi Daryl,
You have overcome many problems along the way with your clever lines of thinking so I hesitate to offer this theory but it may be helpful (or not).

When the brake shoes are adjusted out to the drum, the cylinder cups will follow the shoe due to the spring between the two cups.
In a vertically mounted cylinder this could result in a cavity above the inlet port and below the uppermost cup that air could be trapped in from when the lines were first installed.
Being above the inlet port the air could remain trapped when bleeding the brakes.
If you were to slacken the shoe adjusters right back the shoe springs would draw the shoes back and move the cup down closer to the inlet to reduce the cavity and the risk of trapped air.
Then bleed the brakes.
Then re adjust the shoes out hard while holding some pressure on the pedal at the same time.
Then release the pedal and re adjust the shoes for clearance.
Best Regards, Terry.
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  #3  
Old 06-11-20, 11:15
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 661
Default M8 restoration

Hi Terry

Great suggestion, thanks. Unfortunately we are one step ahead of you. My retired mechanic friend suggested exactly the same thing and I did that today prior to another round of bleeding. I neglected to put that in my update, sorry.

Any other ideas?
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #4  
Old 06-11-20, 14:09
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
Terry Warner
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Shouting at clouds
Posts: 3,152
Default encouragement

I just read through a number of recent posts, and smiled when you mentioned moving the M8 under its own power a few months ago. That is always a monumental occasion - like first flight in a repaired aircraft, or first shots downrange for a rebuilt rifle.

You are fortunate to have willing and equally clever businesses nearby who are helping you with parts and service. I could hear the voice of experience talking in the discussion of sleeved brake cylinders.

As for ergonomics, there is an acceptable modification in wartime Jeeps to notch the leftside wheel arch so the driver's seat can go back another 3-4". Otherwise, today's well fed enthusiasts wouldn't fit. Unfortunately the interior partitions of the M8 rule that out as an option. You might not have a choice except to change out the seat cushions for two thicknesses of folded wool blanket against a single thickness of curved seatback.
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  #5  
Old 07-11-20, 11:17
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
Bluebell
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
Posts: 5,541
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Darryl, have you disconnected the master cyl. and back bled it. Meaning using a pressure bleeder and pushing the fluid from the wheel cylinders back?
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Bluebell

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  #6  
Old 07-11-20, 19:36
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 661
Default M8 restoration

Hi Terry

Yes, it has often felt like two steps forward and one step back during this process.

I agree on the seat. A folded blanket maybe the best option to sit on. I have found though the fact that the steering wheel does come off nice and easy that removal is a good way to help one get in and out of the drivers seat reasonably quickly.
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #7  
Old 07-11-20, 19:40
Big D Big D is offline
Darryl
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Dunedin, New Zealand
Posts: 661
Default M8 restoration

Hi Lynn,

No, reverse bleeding is something I had read about but I know little about it and I wasn’t sure how practical it was to actually do it. I guess I would need to do it at each Tee connection on each wheel but I figured by the time I did that on each wheel I might have introduced a whole lot of air anyway.

Any thoughts on how I’d go about it?
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Cheers,

Darryl Lennane

1943 Willys MB
1941 Willys MBT Trailer
1941 Australian LP2A Machine Gun Carrier
1943 White M3A1AOP Scout Car
1944 Ford M8 Armoured Car
1945 Ford M20 Armoured Car
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  #8  
Old 07-11-20, 20:13
Bruce Parker (RIP) Bruce Parker (RIP) is offline
GM Fox I
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: SW Ontario, Canada
Posts: 2,606
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big D View Post

I agree on the seat. A folded blanket maybe the best option to sit on. I have found though the fact that the steering wheel does come off nice and easy that removal is a good way to help one get in and out of the drivers seat reasonably quickly.
The WW2 British Coventry armoured car required the driver remove the steering wheel to get into the driver's seat. The Fox only that you fold the back of the seat down and climb over it (I rarely fold it back upright and expect drivers in WW2 didn't either). So there is precedent...
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