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#1
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If the external dimensions of the new master cylinder are ok, could you not get a machine shop to bore it out to 1-1/4 and install a rebuild kit?
At work, I made an adapter and installed a Ford master cylinder in place of the chev in a couple of instances. |
#2
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Without measuring the cylinder, my concern about overboring the master cylinder would be the small passage vertically into the fluid reservoir. Most masters I've seen have a larger diameter dimple cast in the base of the fluid reservoir and then a smaller hole drilled into the cylinder. If the overbore extended the working cylinder into the larger part of the hole to the reservoir, would the larger hole risk damaging the rubber cup? You might also need to redo the clip-in cap at the pushrod end of the cylinder depending on how much material remains for it to seat against. I'm not saying it can't be done, just things to check....
Last edited by Grant Bowker; 04-10-20 at 19:16. |
#3
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Well i bought one of those Argentine master cylinders and put it on my C60L during restoration. Bled the brakes and everything worked fine or so I thought. Once the rest was put together and had the power booster on and actually used them, after a couple of brake applications the brakes went mushy. So bleed each wheel, remove drums to make sure no leaks etc. Damned if it wasnt the master cylinder. worst machining I've ever seen in a new part and dangerous the day it was put in a box.
The casting had a tapped and threaded hole near the base, it actually entered into the side wall of the cylinder. as you activated the brake the seal passed over this hole and cut off moon shaped slices off of the seal resulting in total loss of brake pressure. upon further inspection nothing was right about the machining, off centre. If you can't get the original resleeved try a later side mount with a fabricated bracket. |
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