Identification of F15 2WD? - Page 8

Ganmain Tony · #**211** 15-07-20, 14:06

Days and days of trying to find 'bits'. Some people very helpful (in fact most) then there is always the one or two clowns that could help... but just cant be bothered.

Anyway had a little win with a little knick knack that is worthy of Jacques Reeds
thread on Blitz miscellany.

The little bush that acts as a spacer on the armature and the rear bearing, in my experience is always missing. So I had a few made. The guys did such a good job I could not tell the original from the copies.

Have been mucking around with the generator for days with other bits I have picked up from swap meets... quite a few frustrating variations and weird threads on nuts that needed navigating my way through.

Last two pictures made me chuckle.
Ahh well, at least you Canucks still make something (unlike us, who have let the lunatics take over the asylum)

And the old beast is a Canadian truck after all!!!

Lynn Eades · #**212** 15-07-20, 21:47

Hi Tony. Just trying to help here.

What did your man make the bushes from?
The reason why I ask is that usually generator rear bearings (bush type) are made from "sintered" bronze. sintered means something like lots of little balls of bronze all pushed together. One brand name I know of was "oilite" So before you install the bush into the end plate assembly, you would soak the bush in engine oil for a few hours first. The other way to do this was to:
1. sit the bush on your thumb. 2. fill the bush with oil. 3. bring your finger down on the other end and squeeze. The oil will immediately run out down the outside of the bush.
Is there an oil wick in the end of your housing? Sometimes there is a piece of felt (oil reservoir) at the end of the hole with just a small orifice to poke an oil can into, and sometimes there is an oiler with a cap and a short small piece of felt in it. The thing is that ordinary bronze wont get enough lube, it will quickly run dry and in Kiwi / Australian parlance it will "bugger" the bearing end of the armature. One thing that will make a big difference here will be how tight you make the belts. Back in the day it was important to have so much movement in the belt so as not to load up the generator bush. Now days every thing has a ball bearing at the back and so belts can be much tighter.
Another aspect is that you shouldn't "over oil" because you don't want oil getting on the brushes and commutator. This causes other problems.
If your bushes happen to be solid bronze , you are going to have to oil a little and often.
To go further, if the bush cuts out, the armature starts "polling" (hitting the pole shoes. This then causes the armature and or the regulator to burn out.
I am sorry to have to tell you this now that you've gone to all the trouble. I just hope you've employed the correct material and that I'm jumping to conclusions.

Ganmain Tony · #**213** 16-07-20, 14:31

Thanks Lynn I appreciate the information very useful and practical.

Familiar with Sintered Bronze. Spigot bearing in Nissan Patrol 4.2 was made with Sintered Bronze. (Im sure many other vehicles do too)

In my days as a dealer mechanic we had a recall on them which involved r & r the Gearbox. We soaked them in oil then had to actually force a bit through with our fingers.

The bush at the back of the 2 brush, double pulley, truck Generator serves as a spacer primarily and though it runs on the armature shaft is not a load bearing errr, bearing...

It does get a bit of oil from the lube hole at the back and does have felt running round the outside..... It is made from steel, not bronze or brass.

Another riddle solved... The oil filter is required is Fleetguard LF 510. Identical element to the 513 but the 513 comes a bigger diameter rubber gasket. It is the same as what it used on Ford Jeeps.

It appears to be identical to the one that Mike Cecil very helpfully put up pictures of earlier in this thread.

Lynn Eades · #**214** 16-07-20, 21:14

I like the Garnishing.

Jacques Reed · #**215** 17-07-20, 00:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Thanks Lynn I appreciate the information very useful and practical.

Another riddle solved... The oil filter is required is Fleetguard LF 510. Identical element to the 513 but the 513 comes a bigger diameter rubber gasket. It is the same as what it used on Ford Jeeps.

It appears to be identical to the one that Mike Cecil very helpfully put up pictures of earlier in this thread.

Hi Tony,

I think I posted the attached photo a while back but thought it may be useful again here.
It is a comparison of three oil filters. Left- original NOS, Middle- WIX 551001, and right- Fleetguard 510
The WIX is the best fit, in fact the specs for the top and bottom holes are exactly the same as the support tube dimensions in the cannister.
The Fleetguard is a bit shorter and fatter and is more readily available in Aus.
I got the WIX from Engine Australia in Brisbane, the WIX importers.
The NOS is just for show. Would never use a 75 year old filter. Just sent it straight to the pool room!
I believe there were two manufacturers of the filter assemblies so these may only apply to the type I have. Always best to check one's own equipment.

Thanks for the kind comment too.

Cheers

Ganmain Tony · #**216** 17-07-20, 00:34

Lynn

I try my best!!

Ganmain Tony · #**217** 17-07-20, 00:46

I did read this on your Miscellany thread Jacques.

Looking at your oil filter, it appears to be a slightly longer one.
It certainly was used on the trucks.

The one I have was generally used on the cars and is slightly shorter.

Ryco have a number, R4 for the element in the car filter.
However, good luck asking some young bloke at Supercheap to find it.

The Wix element and your original would not fit in the oil "cannister" that I have on my truck. They are too long.

Jacques Reed · #**218** 17-07-20, 01:04

Hi Tony,

Glad that I had that disclaimer of two types. I have two of the longer filter cannisters and haven't seen the other type. I know the 8BA filters were shorter and fatter and easy to obtain. My type took a lot of digging around to find.

Cheers,

Jacques

Lynn Eades · #**219** 17-07-20, 06:23

The Filter housing shown above in the Jeep is the Standard Quartermaster Corps bypass filter of the day.It was fitted to Jeeps, Dodges, and I don't know what else?
It has "Military standard filter" printed around the rim of the lid. (and purolator etc) There is another slightly smaller one, as I recall, with something about "junior" written on it. Is that relevant?

John Mackie · #**220** 17-07-20, 09:52

Back in the good old dayswe sold genuine Ford parts we had A51A 6727 and A51T for most s/v trucks. both had the same I/D and O/D but the A51T one was higher (taller ).
I have 2 large Fleetgaud books here but they do not seem to cater for things as old as S/V Fords. ... Or Australianised part numbers.

Ganmain Tony · #**221** 17-07-20, 14:29

Here's the other one on a truck I have outside. I should sit them side by side.

It is longer than the one now on the truck.

More progress - that bloody filtering system is finally connected. With correct internal filter cartridge. Lines and brass connections sorted and hooked up.

Hanno Spoelstra · #**222** 17-07-20, 16:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

I did read this on your Miscellany thread Jacques.

Looking at your oil filter, it appears to be a slightly longer one.
It certainly was used on the trucks.

The one I have was generally used on the cars and is slightly shorter.

Ryco have a number, R4 for the element in the car filter.
However, good luck asking some young bloke at Supercheap to find it.

The Wix element and your original would not fit in the oil "cannister" that I have on my truck. They are too long.

Tony,

I found the filter housing on my F15A also has a slighty different size. I looked long and hard to find a matching filter - see http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...805#post242805

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

Bosch P 9170 (order number 1 457 429 170, plus see the picture of the packaging for cross references to other brands).

While it stands 23 mm smaller at 110 mm, the diameter of 98 mm is a good match (2 mm larger). The center tube is 1.5 mm too large at 14 mm (although they all seem to be around the 0.55" mark), but I minimized seepage with a couple of rings.

Ganmain Tony · #**223** 14-08-20, 07:46

Thanks Hanno, always appreciate your knowledge and help.

Have not done a lot but am trying to 'stay the course'.

Radiator has been fitted. Top pipes made, hose cut and fitted up.

Ganmain Tony · #**224** 14-08-20, 07:56

Poor thing is very rough. I am going to get it sandblasted and see what is left.

It has had the obligatory farmer modification of cutting the wheel arch boxes and reversing them to make more tray room. I was able to cut them off fairly easily in the end with the angle grinder.

I had an incredible bit of luck. The rod that hinges the tailgate to the body tapped out and is reusable.

Frame underneath is good but I am worried about how many holes will in the floor once the rust is gone.

Ganmain Tony · #**225** 14-08-20, 09:36

Don't know about you guys... but I love old, over engineered stuff.

These Radiator drain cogs are exactly that. They were a project in themselves.

But they cleaned up beautifully and will make draining the radiator a breeze.

Jacques Reed · #**226** 15-08-20, 00:47

Hi Tony,

They look really good and as you say over-engineered.
You are lucky too- usually the arms have been broken off the cocks. I have three of them as proof!

Cheers

Ganmain Tony · #**227** 16-08-20, 11:38

OK ...

So thanks to Victorians who cant stay at home, the loom I have ordered from Vintage Wiring Harness 6 weeks ago is not going to made till god knows when.

So I thought I'd have a crack - not original wire but new and safe. I have a couple of NOS loom sections so I copied the one from the battery to hook up the ignition system.

Completed that part in a day and bit. Allowing for finding connectors and driving to the shops to buy the stuff you thought you had but didnt.

Howard · #**228** 20-08-20, 14:06

Bravo! Old Boy.
Coming along nicely.

Ganmain Tony · #**229** 23-08-20, 14:05

Its a good thing..

https://youtu.be/2xVqxWipAMM

Mike Cecil · #**230** 23-08-20, 17:11

Keith Webb · #**231** 24-08-20, 00:39

Fantastic Tony, what a great moment, well done!

hrpearce · #**232** 24-08-20, 00:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

Fantastic Tony, what a great moment, well done!

I second that motion.

Ganmain Tony · #**233** 24-08-20, 11:52

Thanks Chaps - very kind words (and Emojis

)

I do have a confession to make - I did make one huge blunder.

I didn't put any sort of sealant on the head studs when I put them in.

As a result I had a water fountain running out of all the head nuts.

So.... off with the heads again and remove, clean and refit all 48 of them.

I used a sealant I luckily already had. I previously used it to seal the LPG lines on my ute.
It was expensive from memory, but it is the bee's knees.

Hanno Spoelstra · #**234** 24-08-20, 12:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Its a good thing..

https://youtu.be/2xVqxWipAMM

Wel done Tony!

Ganmain Tony · #**235** 24-08-20, 23:15

Thanks very much Hanno,

Ryan · #**236** 25-08-20, 02:52

Kind of hypnotic watching those belts as it runs.
Well done mate. Great to see the project progressing.

Ganmain Tony · #**237** 25-08-20, 13:35

Thanks Ryan

Never get tired of firing a flat head V8 up. I agree with you, there is something special just watching it while its running.

Brief update,

First picture shows how i primed the engine lubrication system. Oil pressure took a little while. But is now at 50 to 60 PSI, so very happy about that.

Timing was very advanced so I have adjusted it back, 5 degrees before TDC. Advance as it revs up working fine.

Carbie is flooding so I'll rip it off and sort it out.

When I pulled the heads off to do the head studs, I realised just how much scale and crap was in them. I decided to clean them using hydrochloric acid.

It did an amazing job!!. I was stunned at how much crap came out.
What was good was just how clean they were after about 12 hours.

Ganmain Tony · #**238** 11-05-21, 10:34

Finally got a bit of undisturbed time in the shed.
Fooling around with instrument cluster.

Keith Webb · #**239** 11-05-21, 12:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Finally got a bit of undisturbed time in the shed.
Fooling around with instrument cluster.

Looking good Tony, you are really going to appreciate all that room after the Cab 12.

Ganmain Tony · #**240** 30-05-21, 13:16

A bit of tinkering again. Doghouse has been cleaned up. The felt that was around the inside looks mighty original. One bit is in extraordinary condition.

Passenger side step had had an excursion over a stump/rock/tree. Or possibly all three. So I spent one afternoon beating it like it owed me money.
Pretty happy with the result.