Identification of F15 2WD?

Keith Webb · #1 13-07-20, 01:02

Good to see old skills being passed down the generations. Nice to see John at work and the progress on your F15 as well.

Tony Smith · #2 13-07-20, 07:37

And that is exactly how Kitchen Tables are meant to look, Mum!

Ganmain Tony · #3 15-07-20, 14:06

Days and days of trying to find 'bits'. Some people very helpful (in fact most) then there is always the one or two clowns that could help... but just cant be bothered.

Anyway had a little win with a little knick knack that is worthy of Jacques Reeds
thread on Blitz miscellany.

The little bush that acts as a spacer on the armature and the rear bearing, in my experience is always missing. So I had a few made. The guys did such a good job I could not tell the original from the copies.

Have been mucking around with the generator for days with other bits I have picked up from swap meets... quite a few frustrating variations and weird threads on nuts that needed navigating my way through.

Last two pictures made me chuckle.
Ahh well, at least you Canucks still make something (unlike us, who have let the lunatics take over the asylum)

And the old beast is a Canadian truck after all!!!

Lynn Eades · #4 15-07-20, 21:47

Hi Tony. Just trying to help here.

What did your man make the bushes from?
The reason why I ask is that usually generator rear bearings (bush type) are made from "sintered" bronze. sintered means something like lots of little balls of bronze all pushed together. One brand name I know of was "oilite" So before you install the bush into the end plate assembly, you would soak the bush in engine oil for a few hours first. The other way to do this was to:
1. sit the bush on your thumb. 2. fill the bush with oil. 3. bring your finger down on the other end and squeeze. The oil will immediately run out down the outside of the bush.
Is there an oil wick in the end of your housing? Sometimes there is a piece of felt (oil reservoir) at the end of the hole with just a small orifice to poke an oil can into, and sometimes there is an oiler with a cap and a short small piece of felt in it. The thing is that ordinary bronze wont get enough lube, it will quickly run dry and in Kiwi / Australian parlance it will "bugger" the bearing end of the armature. One thing that will make a big difference here will be how tight you make the belts. Back in the day it was important to have so much movement in the belt so as not to load up the generator bush. Now days every thing has a ball bearing at the back and so belts can be much tighter.
Another aspect is that you shouldn't "over oil" because you don't want oil getting on the brushes and commutator. This causes other problems.
If your bushes happen to be solid bronze , you are going to have to oil a little and often.
To go further, if the bush cuts out, the armature starts "polling" (hitting the pole shoes. This then causes the armature and or the regulator to burn out.
I am sorry to have to tell you this now that you've gone to all the trouble. I just hope you've employed the correct material and that I'm jumping to conclusions.

Ganmain Tony · #5 16-07-20, 14:31

Thanks Lynn I appreciate the information very useful and practical.

Familiar with Sintered Bronze. Spigot bearing in Nissan Patrol 4.2 was made with Sintered Bronze. (Im sure many other vehicles do too)

In my days as a dealer mechanic we had a recall on them which involved r & r the Gearbox. We soaked them in oil then had to actually force a bit through with our fingers.

The bush at the back of the 2 brush, double pulley, truck Generator serves as a spacer primarily and though it runs on the armature shaft is not a load bearing errr, bearing...

It does get a bit of oil from the lube hole at the back and does have felt running round the outside..... It is made from steel, not bronze or brass.

Another riddle solved... The oil filter is required is Fleetguard LF 510. Identical element to the 513 but the 513 comes a bigger diameter rubber gasket. It is the same as what it used on Ford Jeeps.

It appears to be identical to the one that Mike Cecil very helpfully put up pictures of earlier in this thread.

Lynn Eades · #6 16-07-20, 21:14

I like the Garnishing.

Ganmain Tony · #7 17-07-20, 00:34

Lynn

I try my best!!

Jacques Reed · #8 17-07-20, 00:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Thanks Lynn I appreciate the information very useful and practical.

Another riddle solved... The oil filter is required is Fleetguard LF 510. Identical element to the 513 but the 513 comes a bigger diameter rubber gasket. It is the same as what it used on Ford Jeeps.

It appears to be identical to the one that Mike Cecil very helpfully put up pictures of earlier in this thread.

Hi Tony,

I think I posted the attached photo a while back but thought it may be useful again here.
It is a comparison of three oil filters. Left- original NOS, Middle- WIX 551001, and right- Fleetguard 510
The WIX is the best fit, in fact the specs for the top and bottom holes are exactly the same as the support tube dimensions in the cannister.
The Fleetguard is a bit shorter and fatter and is more readily available in Aus.
I got the WIX from Engine Australia in Brisbane, the WIX importers.
The NOS is just for show. Would never use a 75 year old filter. Just sent it straight to the pool room!
I believe there were two manufacturers of the filter assemblies so these may only apply to the type I have. Always best to check one's own equipment.

Thanks for the kind comment too.

Cheers