How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Grant Bowker]

Bob,
Are you sure there isn't a piece of rubber hose between the steam line and the radiator? (forward of the steel support bracket at the front of the block)
I have one on my C15A and the steam line and radiator fitting don't come even close to lining up without something to make the curve. My steam line and support were copied from what were represented as original parts and the radiator is original (but recored) so the space between radiator fitting and steam tube on my truck should be close to original layout.

[Bob Carriere]

On two of our seemingly original cab 12 the line is solid and runs directly to the filler neck of the radiator where it connects to a brass fitting. The pipe has a tar impregnated loose cover similar to what is used for electrical wiring.

When the radiator shop redid my radiator core they installed a brass threaded connector directly in the rad tank and soldered shut the opening at the bottom of the neck...... they said it would be stronger....I did not bother to argue about it.....and it does work nicely.

Maybe designers got wise with the cab 13 .

Cheers

[Jordan Baker]

A whole lot of parts for a simple antenna mount. Nearly finished the building of this unit.

[Jordan Baker]

I also just got a nice delivery this evening. Newly made side light socket bodies.

[Jordan Baker]

Antenna mounts all painted and the last 5 large bins are all finished with construction and ready to go to the sandblasters this evening.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan


Took a while to find it but here is the Service Bulletin I was remembering.


Gas Line.jpeg


Interesting the addition of flex lines not found on earlier CMPs. Just shows why we find all sorts of configurations on things on CMPs as time goes bye that are not necessarily shown in the manuals. It is interesting that these little change do show up in the parts books.



Bart Vanderveen was able to narrow down the date of construction of certain CMPs by what combination of special or different parts using the different dates on of publication for the parts book.


Looking through the parts book it will have little notes like "after serial number ?????? use part number ?????." But then again you can find a particularly early CMP that has every single update done to it.


Cheers Phil


PS- What did you use to seal the gasket around the fuel gauge sender unit? The ethanol containing gas has plagued my trucks with weeper leaks that come and go.

[Jordan Baker]

Hi Phil.

Funny enough Brian Gough and I were just talking about that same thing of narrowing down build dates just the other day.

As for sealing on the fuel tanks I think I made gaskets from 1/8” neoprene.

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

A whole lot of parts for a simple antenna mount. Nearly finished the building of this unit.

I don't think that is in any way a 'simple' antenna mount.

It looks to be a modification of the original "Aerial Base No.1" mounting (used with the Wireless Set No.11) where there was a tension spring to hold the insulator itself in the "cup" of the mounting. This was then modified later by adding the square adapter and flat plate on top to take Aerial Base No.8 (and later No.10) when the Wireless Set No.19 replaced the earlier set. The 7-hole (for the six mounting bolts and central feed cable) mounting that was introduced with Aerial Base No.8 has remained the standard to the present day, nearly 80 years after introduction.)

Chris.

[Jordan Baker]

I agree Chris. It’s very complicated. It was originally done for the 11set. In one of the original photos there is what appears to be an 11set mounted in the truck. Or at least the charging board for the 11set. The Mk1* Carrier and Otter were also made to be able to fit the 11set or 19set.

[Jordan Baker]

Installed the tail, brake and convoy lights the other day. The pictures don’t do justice for just how bright these LED’s are. Even from a 45deg view they stand out. I’ll be going with two brake and two tail lights. I realize the original only had one brake but to be safer I’ll go with two.

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

....... I realize the original only had one brake but to be safer I’ll go with two.

Hi Jordan

I wholeheartedly agree that good visible brake lights are a necessary safety measure.

While the wiring diagram, in the manual, shows only one "STOP LAMP" two of my trucks 1945 HUP and 1942 Pattern 13 C60S appear to have been wired originally with two brake or stop lamps one each side.

So that rear of the HUP had two of the two light tail light brackets the drives side one has a toggle switch which turns off both tail lights (rear marker) turns on the black out or SUB LAMP which shines on the rear differential. The C60S has the sub lamp on the side of the frame in the form of push switch like the high low headlight switch
The brake light isolation switch is up on the dash.

When doing my first CMP wiring harness it was for my HUP which fortunately was very complete to copy, using the wiring diagram for the size and wire markings.

Cheers Phil