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#1
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....from a hair dryer...... or a larger paint removing electric gun....... but you need to be careful as it may damage the paint finish....... or the tip of a soldering gun directly to the center pin where it is stuck???
Bob C.
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#2
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Hi Bob.
Not yet, but it is likely next on my possibilities list. It will also motivate me to actually go out and finally purchase a heat gun. Not sure if its creeping old age, but my lovely wife’s ‘Stink Eye’ is starting to have an effect on me whenever I borrow her hair dryer for projects. And, truth be told, I have some bits of paint on the Sender panel that have cracked and lifted a bit. I am pretty sure if I attempted simply pressing it back flat to wick some glue under it and rescue the pieces, the bits would crack free. I am thinking a careful application of heat would soften the paint enough to allow it to be pressed back flat as a first step. Then let it cool and wick the glue under it. David |
#3
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Progress!
Went down and checked the PA TUNE Dial this morning and the dial disc is now free from the knob and a bit of the bottom shoulder of the knob is visible. The dial free wheels and I can rock it side to side +/- 1 mm. David |
#4
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Woot! Woot! Success with this morning's quarter turn!
The grey Dial Knob popped free and I was able to complete the disassembly of the PA TUNE Assembly down to the front panel. You can see the amount of dirt and whatever else that dripped down the panel behind the dial over the years and in the second photo, the amount of dark crud that accumulated between the grey knob and it's brass shaft fitting. Next up will be the middle, I.P.A. 7 - 16 MC Dial Assembly. It will be interesting to see how that one goes. David |
#5
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The Crud Saga continues.
Started work on disassembling the I.P.A. 7 - 16 MC Dial assembly last evening. The POINTERS and hardware were easily removed. The little grey FLICK Lever Knob, however, has a mind of its own. The top mounting screw and set screw both came out easily, but once again, the knob is stuck to its shaft. Once more into the light oils we go. David |
#6
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While waiting for the magic to happen once again with the stuck Flick Lever Knob on the I.P.A. (Why do I always want to have a beer when I type this?) 7 - 16 MC Dial Assembly, I decided to clean and polish out the varnish on the brass shaft fitting on the PA TUNE condenser shaft that gave me so much grief.
I started late last evening and finished this morning. It probably has not looked this bright and shiny since the day it was cast and machined somewhere in a long forgotten shop back in 1943/44. The grey tuning knob now just moves up and down the fitting snugly, but has yet to have the visible oxides on its inner surfaces buffed out. It is interesting that the 52-Set documentation notes the Flick mechanism parts for the 19-Set are identical to those of the 52-Set and the 19-Set parts can be used in the 52-Set, but the practise should be avoided if at all possible because the 52-Set items were made to much finer tolerances, Seems right enough. I have noticed the tuning knobs on the 52-Set Receivers, and now this Sender fit much more snugly on their fittings than the 19-Set equivalents. David |
#7
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I was looking at the current state of the Sender front panel this morning and noticed something odd about the layout of the PA TUNE Dial setup.
All other similar dials on the 52-Set, and indeed all similar 19-Set dials I have ever seen, make use of a pair of these PLATES, Stop, No. 1 with one being positioned either side of the dial. In this case, only the left hand side PLATES is installed. If one looks closely, however, the set screw used to lock the PLATES in position is still present on the right hand side of where the dial would be, but the hole about ¾-inch below this set screw, where the slide rivet would be located, is missing completely. That raises an interesting question as to why only the left side PLATES, Stop was ever fitted to the PA TUNE Dial on the 52-Set Sender. Seems an interesting exception. David |
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