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#1
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I find that the viewport lids bang when ever i hit a bump hard enough. the locks just rest in place and don't apply any camming to hold them in place and often i find they bounce out of the locked position when i get to my destination. Can't help on the ignition as the motor I'm using is a later top mount distributor, 12 volts, petronix. |
#2
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Alistair,
This might sound crazy, but have you felt the temp of the coil when it stops running? The symptoms you describe are exactly what was happening when I first drove my first F15 in the 1980s, and we soon discovered that the 4.5 volt coil was getting 6 Volts - and gradually overheating. After 20 minutes, it had cooled, and the engine started again without a problem, then would run until the coil overheated. No/little spark, so no ignition. Of course, your Lynx system is 12 Volt - is the coil also 12 V or a standard 4.5 V Ford coil working via a resistor? Mike |
#3
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The coil runs 4.5V the instruments run 6V and the lights etc 12V. I am still having trouble sorting mine out. Cheers Rick.
__________________
1916 Albion A10 1942 White Scoutcar 1940 Chev Staff Car 1940 F30S Cab11 1940 Chev WA LRDG "Te Hai" 1941 F60L Cab12 1943 Ford Lynx 1942 Bren Gun Carrier VR no.2250 Humber FV1601A Saracen Mk1(?) 25pdr. 1940 Weir No.266 25pdr. Australian Short No.185 (?) KVE Member. |
#4
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Thanks for the suggestions chaps but some of you did not notice that the rotor arm is missing the contact to the central carbon bush. Clearly that is a show stopper! I am going to try to replace it but I will not be happy until I have a reliable replacement.
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#5
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Not being willing to await the arrival of the rotor arm I had ordered from Mack Auto, I decided to fix the broken one.
I removed the head of the rivet holding the brass "contact" and revealed the broken end of the spring strip contact. I commenced drilling the rivet out but the drill wondered off the hard rivet into the soft plastic as I feared so I drilled from the other side until I hit the rivet and then punched it out upwards. I took the spring strip from a set of points, ground it to the correct width and drilled a hole through it (using a tungsten carbide spear point tile drill). I reassembled the whole using a self tapping screw but, fearing that the plastic would burst under the pressure of screwing the screw in I chose a small screw and Araldited it in. I feared that the "contact" may have shifted in the process so I removed the distributor, assembled the rotor arm and cap onto it and turned it by hand. The "contact" did indeed foul the contacts inside the cap by about 1/32". Having filed this off the end of the "contact" everything is sweet and the Lynx now runs reliably again. Alastair |
#6
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I see that some vehicles have a marking "W/T" on them. Somewhere I believe I have read that all vehicles fitted with a radio transmitter were so marked. My Lynx has a Mk19 set but is not marked in this way. It is true that it has been completely restored in the past so the markings may just have been missed. However, I would like to confirm that my vehicle should have them as the restorer, Mike Ebeling, was most meticulous in all other respects.
Secondly, I have seen in one photograph, a sign "SLING HERE" alongside a lifting eye on the vehicle. This was a picture of a prototype Lynx in the factory. Did this continue into production and would it have been stencilled alongside each of the four eyes? Alastair F60S LAAT Lynx I MkIII* |
#7
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Unless there's some really odd explanation it's almost certain your Lynx had the W/T. It was factory applied and visible on every wartime 'repaint' I've ever seen.
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