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#1
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here's some of the parts i got. body is pretty clean. there's some scabbed on plates that will need to be removed from the front armor.
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#2
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so it's been slow going with this project. much to my dismay the original block has 2 large cracks in it. 1 in particular runs thru the exhaust port and i don't believe it's reparable. i'm going to bring to a shop that specialises in block repair and see what they say. other wise the block looks to have been completely rebuilt and ready to go. in the mean time i pulled a block out of storage and could use that if it's not repairable. of course that block needs a rebuild.
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#3
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Look up Metal Stitching. There is a company that will sell you drills, taps, jigs and fixtures to repair castings and/or machinings. The machinist drills a hole along the crack, sets in the pin of the fixture, and alternatively drills and taps holes. He screws plugs into holes with threadlocker and proceeds. Eventually the crack is filled with plugs.
Don't know how well they'll work in your application, but if you are looking at large $$ for a replacement block, this might be an option.
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Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
#4
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Personally I wouldn't try to fix one that has a crack from the cyl. bore to a valve seat. It would basically be a time bomb. You would never know when the stitching would let go, and next thing water is no longer where it's supposed to be.
I am sure guys will now tune in and say they fixed theirs way back in 1763 B.C. and it's still running like a clock, but that's me. I'd want mine to be reliable, so I'd start with a better block and not waste dough on the cracked one. Just an opinion from this ole mechanic. I wish you better luck with the second one Leo.
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#5
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still making progress. working on linkages and pivots. took the front armor off to get at the floor. the screws for the pivots were rusted good. so i had to tac weld the heads to remove the nuts.
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#6
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trying to remove the bearing clamp from the tub. the bolt is blocked from removal till i take the exhaust guards off. they needed to come off anyway, they will need some repair too. now with the tub empty it's off to the blasters. hope to be looking at primer and paint in the next couple of weeks. started to put together a list of what i need for replacement armor. coming up quick.
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#7
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easy-peasy. . . enjoy the journey Leo !
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