How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

Back at it after a week away. Today I replaced the threaded section of the parking brake adjusters due to the originals being bent up or rusted out in places. I picked up a 3’ long section of threaded rod and welded in the new pieces. All is now good and the ends thread on very well.

[Jordan Baker]

The steering connecting rod is now back together. A couple of questions though that I’ve got. Is there supposed to be some kind of dust seal under the sheet metal cover? Lastly are these the correct style of grease fittings?

[Mike Cecil]

Yes, it was rubber, shaped like the outer shell with a raised edge that protruded though the central hole.

I had a box full but they were old and had gone brittle, so split as you put one over the ball of the steering arm.

Mike

[Jordan Baker]

Hi Mike. Thanks for the info.

[Jordan Baker]

It was a busy afternoon in the shop today. The rear brake backing plates were primed then onto making a bunch of seals and installing a number of seals. Front tie rod got new outer dust seals. I made them out of neoprene. I used the dished washer to stamp out new ones in the press. The original internal felt seals were cleaned and re installed as they were in great shape. What a job getting the tie rod sealing plate installed. Thankfully the pulled could be used as a pusher to compress internal spring.

[Jordan Baker]

I also made up new neoprene seals for the steering control arm. Installed new front axle seals and the bearing races for the front steering knuckles. Lastly it’s fun trying to figure out where all the bolts go again.

[Bob Carriere]

We have been using the leather seals used on Dodge M 37.... the leather benefits form soaking in Neats Foot oil overnight but htye work amazingly well and readily available.


On the grease fittings or any other shinny bolt head...... get yourself a small bottle of gun blue solution available in blue or black.... they go black and seem to eventually hold paint better.


Bob C