WW2 Canadian Wireless Valve Testers

[Bob Carriere]

When do you start production ....... I could use one for my tester.

...and how did you do such a nice job on the lettering...???

Bob C.

[David Dunlop]

Thank you for your nice comments, Bob.

I am not sure about production just yet. I am still on the dark side of all the wiring that will have to be done, but am looking forward to that challenge. The Wiring Diagram and photos Bruce McMillan posted will be a huge help in that phase.

As for the lettering, that is a product called ‘LETRASET Instant Lettering’ I actually purchased in 1976 at a local Drafting supply store, back in the day when the human brain reigned supreme and hand eye coordination a wonder. I was restoring my 1st M38CDN back then and needed a means to replicate the white ‘HIGH BEAM’ decal under the red indicator lamp on the Instrument Panel. The chap who ran our Drafting Office in the Geology Department at the UofM suggested I go and check the product out as they used a lot of it creating all sorts of geological maps for thesis publications and research papers.

I picked up several interesting sheets in white and black print and still have them, with original backing sheets and storage bags, sitting flat in a credenza drawer in our office here at home. I usually apply the lettering after measuring out where it all needs to go (usually several times) before the paint fully cures. It seems to bond really well doing that. You can apply a clear coat, but I only ever did that with the M38CDN lettering: a small rectangle surrounding the lettering to simulate a clear water transfer decal backing.

David

[Bob Carriere]

I had some from the office from years ago...... had a friend who worked in "form design" section and kept me supplied.

After many moves and eventual storage in a very hot attic my sheets were all spoiled..... I am sure that went away with the Dodo birds...... it sure was handy

Must be something available that can be done today on computers by printing on special decal sheets?????

Anybody has any suggestions...... for us to modernize!!!

Bob C.

[Grant Bowker]

It does seem Letraset has gone the way of the Dodo. (the forum spellchecker fails to recognize the name). These folks sell custom made rub transfer labelling https://imagetransfers.com/blog/how-...from-letraset/ I've never tried them but it seems an interesting concept.
Yes, it is possible to print your own water transfer decals (also called water-slide in some discussions). There are several catches to be aware of - printing white with inkjets (Alps used to make a printer that could print white) or lasers isn't the easiest, not all inkjets will work with water resistant ink.

[David Dunlop]

The valve sockets have now been mounted to the cover plate and the hardware secured with red lacquer (compliments of a sale on Revlon). The ID tags on the back of the cover are to remind me exactly what sockets I am working on when I get around to the actual wiring of them.

The last picture I could not resist taking as it is a bit of a sneak preview of how the finished assembly will look after the wrinkle black gets applied to the case.

I now need to get a final sort of the wiring on the original Stark adapter he owns from Bruce McMillan, and then the real fun can begin.

David

[David Dunlop]

Hello Bruce McMillan. It’s me again.

I am wondering this time if you can confirm some wiring information for me on your Stark adapter? I would like to try and match the colours used by Stark and if I match starting at the B9G socket, I will be working backwards to the Octal Plug and it can fall into place easily enough at that point.

(1) The cable I am working with has 8 coloured wires as follows: white, yellow, orange, red, green, blue, brown and black. I think 7 of those are a match for the wiring on the Stark. The exception should be my ‘white’ would be a purple wire on the Stark.
(2) What coloured wires start off from the Octal Plug to the pins of the B9G socket? That is the busiest socket for connections and once it is sorted, I can follow through with the other sockets easily enough from the wiring diagram and socket photo you provided earlier.
(3) Line 8 from the Octal Plug shows feeding to both Pin 5 and Pin 8 of the B9G socket and then off to Pin 8 on the Mazda Octal socket. I can see there is a jumper between Pins 5 and 8 on the B9G, but I cannot tell if the wire from the Octal Plug goes to Pin 5 first, jumps to Pin 8 and then to the Mazda, or if it starts at Pin 8, jumps to Pin 5 and then off to the Mazda. I suspect the former but need your observations of the original Stark.


If you can confirm the above three items for me Bruce, the wiring part of my work can begin.

Best regards,

David

[Bob Carriere]

I thought wiring my C15a was tricky and I had a new repro harness with all the correct colors!!!!!

I am waiting for the sssszzzzit Poof!!!!!

Make sure you work stool is isolated......

Bob C