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#1
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Great information again on the chassis difference, I am certainly learning a lot. Wonderful thing this forum. Where would we be without it. Based on the info above I wonder if the ones in my possession may be F8 cables??
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#2
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Hear, hear! A fortnight ago I didn't even know there were emergency brake conduit clips on the F15/F15-A trucks. A bit of help, a few questions asked, and a bit of detective work and here is a finished product. I knocked it out Saturday afternoon. Took more time to get the 3/4" wide steel strip then to bend it up as I don't have a guillotine. I ripped a wider piece of 16 gauge steel with a sabre saw between two steel angle guides then draw filed the edge to remove the irregularities. Next one won't take nearly as long to fabricate. Many thanks again for your info and pointing me in the right direction. Hope you are getting some success with obtaining your cables. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#3
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Outstanding work Jacques, they look like NOS.
Sorry I havent replied earlier but my computer at home expired. Have got to set it up again after getting something in the big box thingy that sits next to the monitor replaced. Anyhoo I havent been idle. I have been going to generator school out at Hillston. My teacher is someone a lot of people know on here. Been very productive... just to simply identify all the components and know what is good and what needs attending to.
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#4
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Big learning curve for me. Id rather learn about this stuff than have someone else do it.
Such as finding front and rear bearings for the heavy duty generators,, SKF 6303 (front of armature) and 6203 (rear). Some of the genny's had a bush in the back instead. The ones with the bearing in the back have an all important spacer in the back which is frequently missing. The shaft on the armature some times has wear and will get serious wobbles up if not corrected. A simple trick is to burr the shaft with a centre punch.
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#5
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One original line was in good order.
One end had been cut but it must have been close to the original flare as the nut was still there. I was able to get new insulation on it as a result, by removing the nut off the cut end. The insulation was cactus but I managed to find a supplier at a swap meet a few years back. Bent up the other line and got them double flared. Interesting to note passenger side is longer as the fuel tap is not in the centre of the floor.
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#6
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What a Saga!
Finally has come to an end. Mac's cables are no good. Spring end that goes to the actuator in the drum is way too short. Tried to get longer cables made in the new old stock ones... no good. Decided to take a risk and modify the new old stock ones ourselves. Had some amazing help again from a capable neighbour, below is what we did. Step 1 get the steel cover off the end of the outer conduit. Step 2 Hold back steel cover with pliers Step 3 cut outer conduit whilst praying you don't cut the cable Step 4 breath sigh of relief then realise you have to cut another inner section with grinder and pray you don't cut the cable. Step 5 Stay tuned
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. Last edited by Ganmain Tony; 12-12-18 at 12:07. Reason: Grammer |
#7
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Hi Tony,
Great photos, and how to do it. As the old saying goes "Necessity is the Mother of Invention". For close cutting work I have found my Dremel tool invaluable even for automotive work. I have used it numerous times on the truck. The small cutoff wheels go through thin steel like a knife through butter but give you great control. One of them might be good for step 4! Think I mentioned it before in another thread but my first use of a Dremel for automotive work was to cut off a muffler on my car back in the seventies. With their small cutoff wheel I split the inlet and outlet without touching the head or tail pipes and the muffler practically fell off. The small wire brush is also handy for getting rust off a threads in a tight spot if you wish to save the fastener. The Fuel tank retainer strap bolt is a case in point. They snap easily as I found out the hard way if not cleaned up and drowned in penetrating oil. Note: If you use a wire brush in the Dremel tool slow it down and do not use at full speed otherwise the wires may break prematurely and fly out at great speed. New ones have inbuilt speed controllers but my old tool doesn't so I run it through an external speed controller. Full speed is fine for cutting however. Look forward to step 5. Regards,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed Last edited by Jacques Reed; 12-12-18 at 21:55. Reason: Added speed safety warning for Dremel tool. |
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