Replacement Chevrolet master cylinder

[rob love]

I have successfully installed the Ford master cylinder into that location by making up a new bracket. The Ford master cylinders are relatively cheap over here....at one point I think I was paying $35USD for them.

After all, adding anything Ford can only make a chev better.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Wagner MC F9220 is the part number for a master cylinder identical to the WW2 Chev type except it has the two horizontal mounting holes cast into the body instead of the flat base with the two studs as per the WW2 type. I hope to sleeve a WW2 original for my HUW but failing that this one goes in. It will require an angle bracket with four holes to adapt the original stud mount to these two horizontal bolts.

I did a quick google search and this number didn't come up so it may be as hard to find as the original however.

[Grant Bowker]

Most Wagner master cylinders seem to have a 2 letter prefix, commonly FD or FE. Raybestos markets a replacement for the 9220 as MC9220, Dorman sells as M9220, NAPA as NMC P9220.

[Bob Carriere]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NOS-Del...VX4n0v&vxp=mtr

Yes the bolts are different but the cross section of 1 1/4 is correct.

It is a lot of $$$ just for a core that will be rebuilt....... these 1/4 inch larger Masters were intended for the 1 ton plus trucks.

cheers

another https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-T...xaYSSR&vxp=mtr

another listed for GMC but same part ###https://www.ebay.com/itm/1938-1939-1...VZsqL0&vxp=mtr

[Barry Churcher]

Hanno, I don't know the number right off hand but I probably have the box with the old core in it on a shelf someplace. Any of the cylinders above that the guys have mentioned should work. The cylinder with the new bracket was a fairly easy fab and it worked excellent. You have to make sure the bracket is heavy so as not to flex on application.
Cheers,
Barry

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Great input guys!

This info should give the next one looking for a master brake cylinder replacement enough info to work with. This is the sort of subject where the combined knowledge of MLU members keeps these ageing vehicles running.

Thanks,
Hanno

[Tony Smith]

This M/C is of the correct configuration:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1936-19...EAAOSwHMJYFAgk

However, the seller recommends that the correct kit to put through is the #3 kit, which is only a 1" bore. This may be a typo, as the kit for the 1 1/4" bore is a #33 (also known as TM3630). If this is actually a 1" bore, I wonder if it could be bored out to 1 1/4" when sleeving?