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In your specific case of the grips I would personally still consider reproducing them in a sillicone mould and resin. Some resins have very limited shrinkage or filling material can be added to reduce shrinkage. Once painted you won't see the difference as casting texture and parting lines will also be transferred ....it might be stronger than normal pot metal and spares can be easily cast if it breaks. If you want a more authentic effect you could scan and print in metal. I had a boiler for a prototype coffee machine printed 10 years ago, which was done in Selective Laser sintering. The "look" was comparable with pot petal, but it was in fact metal dust, combined with resin....and not water tight as we soon found out ![]() The scanners nowadays are so accurate they will also scan weld texture, parting lines and any defects, so the printed end result will look very much like a cast part. Scanning, than printing a master and than casting might give the result closest to the original, but I think it also the most expensive. I think that's the way to go if you want to make a whole series of parts....for instance if you want to make reproduction tracks. I have had things scanned here by a company called Geopoints. http://www.geopoints.nl/ They have several scanners and scan all sorts of stuff like car parts for reverse engineering, but also art, airplane cockpit elements, complete car bodies.....but also a Fiat 8V engine for reproduction! etc. I am sure there will be similar firms on your end of the pond, but if not, you can always contact them.....send the part (or a copy in resin!) have them scan it and the file will be sent through WeTransfer. They can also scale the file and either prepare a CAD file for further work in 3D CAD or a file directly suitable for printing. There are plenty firms nowadays that offer printing services. Some are not very willing to work for hobbyists, but others do. Alex
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Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle Last edited by Alex van de Wetering; 15-11-17 at 23:22. |
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