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Relining steel bearing shells with new babbit, it is possible to achieve good results with basic equipment . Some of the vintage car people with rare cars ( replacement parts not available ) have successfully relined steel bearing shells with new babbit in a home workshop . You need to find the correct flux and some new babbit . I'm not saying its a quick and easy job but the other option is to pay somebody 300-400 bucks per shell.
With babbit rods, if you have a lathe with decent throw, after the babbit reline you can bore the rods to size. Make a mistake, no problem , go back to the beginning and melt out the babbit . Try again . Years ago at the Melbourne Showgrounds swap, they had a line boring demo setup, an old chap had the block set up and the cutters slowly went through each bearing .
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
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Thanks guys; your reactions are very much appreciated!
David; I agree....there must be a typo in one of the manuals, as the other 3 bearing numbers do match. They were thorough though as the index shows the same number. Lynn; thanks for the explanation on the different bearings. At first I thought the quality of the wartime blocks was rather poor which meant line-boring or hand scraping was always necessary....which is why I couldn't figure out why "precision" bearings would also work. Silly me! ![]() I now understand the benefit of the line-boring type bearings (at the time)....from what I have heard there is a lot of "meat" on these bearings, which means the supply line would only have to provide one set of bearings which could than be line-bored to the neccessary oversize.....in stead of supplying several bearings sets in several oversizes. But, of course the downside is extra labour and equipment to do the line-boring. The problem I have found so far in finding bearings for my Chev is that a lot of the Ebay adds have incomplete or incorrect decriptions....often it's not clear what type of bearings is being offered (line boring, precision etc.) or sets are mismatched or incomplete. One set currently being offered as STD bearings display the same numbers that David posted earlier...which according to the Canadian manual would make them the lineboring type! Same with a dealer in France.....a set marked "010" again uses the same numbers, which would again make them the "lineboring" type.....which nowadays seems to be a rather expensive procedure at the engine rebuilders. Mike; Yes, I did read about some tractor restorers here in Holland that do re-babbiting themselves...however I wonder how these bearings would hold up? Maybe for a tractor it would be good enough....but for a fire-breathing CMP? Alex
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Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle |
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