Info needed: 1967 M38A1 Lubrication?

[Les Kovacs]

Hi Rob....thanks for all the replies to my inquiries. Before I reply to your answers one by one I will say that I met with Brian Asbury....I bought a rebuilt 3 pulley water pump from him this AM as well as several other parts....he had nothing but good things to say about you....I will move on.

1. The old pump came off easily...looks good-no vanes/impeller blades broken and there is no play between the vanes and the pulley....in short, it turns fine with no growl. OK....so what made the loud ping noise (just like a M1 garand clip leaving the breach) before the coolant let go through the puke hole?

2. I did not take it too a shop...after 20 years not wrenching on my vehicles (with the exception of wiper changes, oil-filter changes, diff/tranny fluid changes etc) I got down to it with my wife and everything was off, cleaned and paint prepped to be put back on in 3 hours. I will however bring the rad into a rad shop to be cleaned & flushed as there is a lot of brown-grey sludge in and around the core. Question-when I took off the thermostat housing to replace the thermostat....there was none.....why?...what are the ramifications? and how may it have effected the longevity of the engine?

3. Yup...got "all" the data plates including shift patterns but it does not show shift pattern for normal 2 wheel driving ...so for normal driving the 4x4 in/out shifter should be all the way forward-to the dash-firewall (OUT) and the second shifter (low/neutral/high) should be all the way back-towards the seats (HIGH)....right?
I am asking because I have lots of play in the 4x4 shifters and at times in 1st or reverse the jeep will not move once the clutch is engaged but if I play with the 4x4 shifters it will engage......so, once the jeep is put together, I will try it as you wrote it and see if the main transmission shifter will engage in 1st once the clutch is engaged.

4. Rich or Lean? OK....firstly, the jeeps starts first time every time and runs well without a choke start up.....but it possibly requires a leaner mixture....where is the mixture screw?

I was wondering if you can reply in point form as above.

So....out of all of these inquires, the most intriguing is the loud metallic ping and then the coolant puking fluid even though the old pumps looks and feels good. Any thoughts as the wife is now hesitant in future drives in the jeep.

les

[rob love]

I can't explain the pinging sound....likely a red herring: unrelated to the fault you did find. Heck, it could be a 1/2" wrench you left on the skid plate finally fell onto the road.

The lack of thermostat is not ideal. But it normally leads to condensation in the oil (especially at low temps. I recall seeing what looked almost like a film of whip cream on the dipstick in the winter time). As well the engine will not fully burn it's fuel at lower temps. Perhaps that is why your tailpipe is sooty.

Levers should be like you say. They will rattle around if the little spring clips are not slipped between them and the bracket they mount into. If they are popping out of their gear, then you have some transfer case repairs to do.

The mixture screw is located at the bottom inch of the carb, pointing towards the heater. Look for a screw with a spring between the screw head and the carb body.

Can't help on the wife thing. I just kept trading up until I found one who likes/tolerates my toys. Even now she can complain a little too much on a cruise night.

[Les Kovacs]

Rob....enjoyed your last response about the wife....

My thoughts exactly about the sooty tail pipe....a 160 thermostat will go in as soon as the rad comes back from the flushing its getting.....hopefully that will get rid of the soot and run the engine at proper temps....one of my initial inquiries was why the temp gauge never or rarely went past 140 F.

Both clips are in the 4x4 shifters and they are loose but they have never yet popped out of gear....tried the shifter locations you described and it works. I guess at times I never had them in the proper sequence for 2 wheel drive.

Once I get everything buttoned up & working/running I will adjust the mixture screw as per your response.

Thanks for suggesting Brian Asbury as a possible source of parts in one of your earlier posts....he had parts for the CDN2 that many others did not.

[Les Kovacs]

Finally figured out why jeep would not move at times....4x4 shifters were loose with lots of play and they were easily falling out of their position-a look underneath showed that both anti-rattle springs were not in the right place and they were not even positioned-(pushed onto the shift shaft)-took apart top cover & rubber, exposed shift leavers-took out loosely lying springs and placed them in their proper positions on the shifters-pressed them onto the shift shaft and then made sure they clipped into the notches/keepers on the shifters-done...all tight now and more accurate shifting with positive detents.

Thanks Rob,

[rob love]

Geez Les......I think I may have to start to invoice you for the good (lucky) advice.

[Les Kovacs]

Hi Rob...sure...send your invoice....they are piling up as we speak with so many new parts I can't keep track. So far I have put in a thermostat, had the rad flushed, painted etc...replaced all the fluids, greased all the joints, some hoses, installed a fuel filter before the carb and a second before the fuel pump, tied down the fuel line (it was loose and rattling), fixed the shifter spring clips, replaced the carb to air filter hose, shifter rubber and on and on....in the next week I will replace the spark plugs, points/condenser (will require tips from you if possible) exhaust tip, bell crank repair kit, tie rods....so far this jeep feels like a jet fighter of the 60-70's....for every drive hour, it requires 30 hours of service.

Regards,

les

[Les Kovacs]

Hi Rob...

Saturday I put the newly flushed rad in and installed a 160 degree thermostat (remember it did not have any on taking off thermostat housing).

So, here is what happened on start up......the jeep cranked but would not start....usually it starts first crank....I panicked. Did not know why it would not start. Then, I traced back to what I did before the rad flush/thermostat install.....I installed a second fuel filter on the line underneath the rad....first one was in between the carb and sediment bowl....so, I took off the filter near the carb and left the new fuel filter before the fuel pump.....jeep started first crank!

Question #1.....did the two fuel filters make it hard for the fuel pump to pump fuel to carb or what?

Secondly, once the jeep started, I had my wife sit in the jeep watching the temp gauge....I was watching the open rad to see if coolant level dropped on thermostat opening. (Remember initially on checking the thermostat- there was none on taking the housing off-with no thermostat in the jeep temp gauge never went past 140 F) so now, with an actual 160 F thermostat installed, after about 20 minutes of idling (had to recharge batteries) the temp gauge very slowly went to 180 F-but never moved past 180 F parked in my garage but the coolant in the rad-at the rad cap opening never went beyond 155 F (measured by a new rad temp gauge)-never triggering the opening of the 160 F thermostat....Question...is this normal?

Thanks in advance...

les