Info needed: 1967 M38A1 Lubrication?

[Les Kovacs]

Hi Rob....thanks for the trans/transfer case leak info....again, I changed fluids out of both and spend a considerable amount of time wiping the trans/transfer to see where the leak was coming from....I will take 2-3 drives then look underneath.

I also drove home yesterday about 5-6kms in 32 C temp....lots up hill, got home and waited about 2 min....squeezed upper rad hose....not pressured so I opened up the cap and put a thermometer into the hot fluid.....got about 155 F temp...gauge on dash never went beyond 130-140F.

Its also still puking rad fluid but its still about 2-3 inches above the core....or about 1-2 inches from the top.

PS....is it difficult to replace the oil pan gasket?

Cheers,

les

[Les Kovacs]

I am trying to stop all oil leaks & weeps from the engine on 67 CDN2.
I have a slow oil weep from a screw and rubber gasket on the driver side engine block where a fuel line goes into a fitting with a screw & nut that appears to screw into the exhaust valve cover....can I just keep tightening it until it stops weeping oil? What is this fitting for?

Thanks,

les

[rob love]

Sounds like you are talking about the little cover for the PCV system. You can try and tighten it a little more, but I suspect with the age of the gaskets it might be time to change them. Go with Felpro...they often have the foam rubber gaskets which will seal better than the cork, but then again we have successfully used cork for the lat century with great success.

Oil pan gasket is about the simplest oil pan you will ever change. It is one piece of cork...no rubber crank seals involved. Shouldn't take more than 45 minutes on a slow day.

[Les Kovacs]

Thanks Rob....I have ordered a pan gasket as well as the two gaskets (PTO & pan) on the transfer case as they too are weeping. I have also ordered a pinion seal for the rear Dana 44.....any issues that you can think of that may arise taking off the pinion?.....does anything have to be calibrated when putting things back?
Also, is it easy to change the PCV valve gasket? Can I just take off the bolt and the whole housing or will anything fall into the crankcase?

PS....I am assuming that you have spent time in the military....are you retired? Also, with all the knowledge you have with repairs to a M38A1, I am assuming that you have one....and if so, what year/batch?

Thanks......les

[rob love]

The pinion seal can be a bugger to pull. Installation is not a big deal, but clean the bore and a slight coating of RTV before seal installaion. A little more RTV behind the washer of the pinion nut as well, in case oil sneaks thru the shaft. You may have to devise a flange holding tool to get the full torque, although guys have been putting it on with impacts for a lot of years and getting away with it.

Nothing will fall in when you remove the sidepan, although it is a bit of a tight squeeze getting it out and then putting it all back again. Put the gasket on with a little contact cement onto the sidecover, and then leave it alone for a bit before trying to install it.

First vehicle I ever drove was a Jeep in the militia at 16. That was 40 years ago. I have built and owned many over the years, but my current one is a CDN3. The Cdn 3 has a few improvements over the earlier models...the frame re-enforcement and self adjusting brakes are far superior to the earlier stuff.

[Les Kovacs]

Thanks for the pinion seal reply Rob....what part of the frame was reinforced on the CDN3?

The pinion seal info/paragraph will be printed and given to the garage that will be doing the seal & bell crank replacement.

I will be doing the spark plugs next when they arrive...any issues there? Is there a special tool to get the wires off? Will any special tools be necessary to get the plugs out?

Also....if you have had a few jeeps.....where do you get your parts from?

regards...les

[rob love]

Any decent mechanic will already know what to do to change a pinion seal....don't insult the guy.

The only problem you may find with the spark plus is that if the last person over tightened the nuts on the sparkplug, when you go to un-do the wire, the whole spark plug may turn. You then have to undo the wire at the cap, then turn the wire and spark plug together to remove the plug.

There is a special wrench for undoing the nuts on the wires, but it can be done with a regular 3/4 wrench just fine. You will require a 1/2" drive 13/16 deep socket to remove the plugs.

Lots of places for parts, but the key for me has been to hoard, hoard hoard.

Lots of Jeep guys around on both sides of the border, and ebay will usually work out as well. Brian Asbury, in your neck of the woods, is usually competitive. I use John Bizal at Midwestern military in the US, and often QTR parts on ebay have favorable prices.

[rob love]

Originally Posted by Les Kovacs

.what part of the frame was reinforced on the CDN3?

The earlier models are prone to cracking on the frame just above the front spring hangers of the rear springs. I saw more than a few of the CDN2 with these cracks. The CDN3 had plates added to the inside of the frame in this area. I never saw a CDN 3 crack in that area.

Other improvements, besides the larger self actuating (and adjusting) brakes, were the fine spline one piece rear axle shafts, the closed hood hinges, and the solid state turn signals, although the vast majority had those installed by the time the Jeeps left service.