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 Just re read this and thought I would offer this suggestion. A blacksmithing mate of mine said a good way to make a rivet dolly is to heat a grade 8 bolt red hot of the appropriate size and drive a ball bearing of the desired size into it forming a rounded cup. Drill steel, though hard, is very brittle so may fracture with disastrous results upon heavy impact as would occur in riveting. It may be worth considering anyway. Cheers, 
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	F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed  | 
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 I'll try a few ways. VMVC had an article a few years back... Technique is different but all good. Cheers, Ian 
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	Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff  | 
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			Well I have been busy over the last few weeks I did a guard repair to make it 'rounder' and a smooth arc.   
		
		
		
			Cutting out the old welds and adding a bit of metal to make it curve. Surprised to learn that this is over-perfection and my 'template guards are just cuts around the arch-way. Ahh well. They are at the sand blasters this week so they'll be in primer in the coming days. I have fitted the cross member to the chassis with bolts until we get some still winds and I can have a hot flame. Ron I haven't forgotten your offer. 
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	Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff  | 
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			Well after a few hours on Saturday I managed to remove the propellor shafts and the transfer case.  As usual the bolts are seized so they snap off in the case. The locking wire was intact - all gone on the top two bolts. 
		
		
		
			Sorry not much detail but a lot going on behind the scenes. Cheers Ian. 
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	Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff  | 
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			Well now it was out, a small task of removing broken bolts. 
		
		
		
			Yep, tried the weld a nut on method. Failed. Tried the drill small and managed to snap a 1/4" drill in the middle of one bolt then two either side of the two big holes. ![]() Drilled around the edges on one broken drill and then with a diamond point chisel chipped away for just on 6 hours. I managed to get all of the old metal out and no damage to the threads in either hole. After getting out the dirt and crap I ran a half cut bolt and cleaned up the threads. Now on to clean the case all up and put in new seals. Cheers, Ian 
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	Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff  | 
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			Today being Sunday requires little noise for everyone. 
		
		
		
			I set the task of getting the steering wheel off the shaft. After studying a bazillion techniques which looked dangerous or destructive, I came up with my own. A puller would just rip the arms on the wheel and hitting it at the back was out too. I spied the steel reinforcing plate in the back of the wheel hub, and found the answer. Hit it with a decent punch on three angles (120 degrees apart) and jar it off the shaft. this made minimal damage to the 72 year old wheel. What I didn't know was that there was a woodruff key of sorts in the shaft. carefully removed its in a plastic bag along with the wheel nut. I have restored several wheels before so this one shouldn't be too difficult. I am going to do four steering wheels in one lot as the preparation and setting up is as bad for one as several. Enjoy. Ian 
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	Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff  | 
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			Time to do the transfer case seals.  No point in stripping a perfectly good case to the last nut and bolt. I had to replace the input shaft as the splines were badly worn probably due to people dropping the clutch back in the day!!!  Thanks to Ross Prince for the appropriate seals.  
		
		
		
			I don't think that there's any point in explaining how they are removed and inserted. Its already been done before. ![]() Two of which are soaking in oil to soften the leather lip. A nice treasure to find was the Ford Script on the slinger. Not seen a lot on CMP's, but made me smile.  
		
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	Ian Williams F15A, 2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's GPW Other stuff  | 
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